Fall’09 fashion a more somber elegance

With the advent of fall, the global recession has taken its most visible toll yet on fashion. From pronounced shoulders to a somber color palette, the styles coming forth this fall and winter hearken back to the era of the last recession - the Eighties.

But there’s something persistently optimistic this time around. It’s reflected in the luxury factor that permeates the palette of black, grays and nudes in both menswear and womenswear. Consider that purple, a color associated with wealth and royalty, is the most prominent pop color used by American designers this season in shades from lavender to eggplant.

Supple, rich leathers are in jackets and accessories such as gloves and boots. Denim appears in a stunning array of washes and fits. And hardware details such as studs, grommets, buckles and zippers add interest if not always utility to garments, bags and footwear.

Motorcycle jackets and boots, though sleek and polished, evoke a yearning for a more grounded existence. Leather gloves will be seen at the first sign of cool weather, and a shiny black pair is a must-have.

Some of fall’s hottest styles by Ports 1961 and Kenneth Cole. Click on an image for a closer, head-to-toe look.

Here are some gender-specific trends to watch for.

WOMEN

Emphasis is on the waist again, with belts thin and wide cinching the body tight for an hourglass figure. It’s balanced with strong shoulders that range from modernized 80s-style padding to cutouts that show some skin.

A nouveau rocker-meets grunge-look accentuated by leather, faux fur and studded denim is a key look, done well by labels such as Vena Cava.

In footwear, animal prints return with a vengeance, but funkier in neon colors and high-fashion silhouettes such as stiletto gladiators. Textures are nature-inspired, mimicking animal skins as varied and exotic as crocodiles and pythons

Bags and ballet flats embellished with everything from crystals, beads and studs to feathers, zippers and even bicycle chains.

Platform pumps are strong. Boots are even stronger, with over-the-calf and over-the-knee styles abundant. But the biggest boot story is the bootie. Looks like everybody from Guess to Gucci is offering one of these ankle-high styles.

Jewelry is still bold and heavy on metal, with clunky multistrand necklaces adding vintage flair and large cuffs replacing the trend of multiple stacked bracelets.

MEN

Colors are muted and dark, but not dreary thanks to design details and tailored fit that combine for sleeker looks than last fall and winter. Guys will want to make sure their wardrobes contain at least one slim suit - navy and  dark are most prevalent- with some strength in the shoulders, as seen in designs by Prada and Tommy Hilfiger.

A versatile piece is the wrinkle-resistant dress shirt. Men should own several in solid colors, stripes and subtle prints. Wear them with jeans and a blazer or over corduroys, layered with peacoats, jackets and knits such as cardigans, vests and turtlenecks.

It’s farewell to backpacks and messenger bags as bags take an interesting turn this fall and winter. They are larger and more sophisticated than ever, thanks to fashion-forward designs by luxury brands such as Bally, Hugo Boss, D&G and Giorgio Armani.

Etro has created the ideal guy bag, a leather-trimmed weekender in a houndstooth plaid of earth tones and tropical sunset colors.

Donna Karan’s Black Cashmere among the best

Seven years ago during New York Fashion Week, Donna Karan invited me to her showroom on Manhattan’s Upper East Side for the unveiling of her newest scent, Black Cashmere. As I settled into a comfortable chair, two lovely young women described the fragrance as they massaged my hands with the scented lotion. I couldn’t discern whether the warm, sensual, Oriental aroma - housed in a flacon shaped like a smooth black stone - was for men or women. I was told that it was blended so that anyone could wear it. Given the buying habits of the American consumer, it was no surprise that women would be targeted in advertising and promotion. I still have some of the eau de parfum and body wash they gave me that September day. I use them rarely and sparingly, and receive compliments each time I do. It’s hard to believe that the prodicts have lost none of their original quality. But then again, that should be the nature of any scent worth its salt.

Real men can wear pearl, too

Someone once said that the pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens. While most women learn by adulthood that a pearl necklace and earrings are musts for her jewelry wardrobe, few fellows realize that pearl can be a classic component in their collection of sartorial accoutrements. One easy way for men to incorporate pearl is in a tie tack or bar. Another, more interesting, way is in a set of handsome cuff links. They make good gifts for groomsmen and for occasions such as Fathers Day, birthdays and anniversaries. Pearls are organic gems produced by living organisms, which puts them in the same family as coral, amber, ivory and shell.

They’re usually carved and polished rather than faceted like mineral gems, and are fairly low-maintenance. They occur naturally in black, champagne and other colors. But they are most common in their natural whitish hue, which ages ago caused some Arab cultures to view pearls as tears of the gods.

Carry your cell phone and computer with style

Luxurious, durable leather goods never go out of style, and there’s more demand than ever with the rise of computers, cell phones and other consumer electronics and technological doodads. With brands such as Ireland-based Octo, you don’t have to pay insanely high prices for avant-garde, sophisticated design. Consider the features of just two of the brand’s items.

The Apple iPhone 3G ribbon case boats seamless Italian leather, stainless steel finishing and a microfiber lining. It comes in a dozen colors and smooth or croc-texture finish. You can carry your Apple MacBook Air in equally elegant style with a similar seamless Italian leather sleeve free of magnets, zippers and straps. It comes in six colors with smooth or embossed leather. Check out these and other striking, apart-from-the-pack accessories for discerning men and women at OCTO Style.

80’s ‘it’ bag brand Aigner still going strong

The clutch may well be the dominant handbag style of the year, but a great purse in any shape will always grab a woman’s attention. As fashion brands popular in the Eighties continue to surge in popularity, Etienne Aigner, the darling of that decade, launches a series of new designs that remind the public why they were Everywoman’s “it” bag a generation ago. Aigner’s Westchester satchel is a beauty to behold.

Beyond its gorgeous exterior, the roomy interior features a zipper compartment with four slide pockets and a zipper pocket on the back wall. The bag also comes with an 18-inch detachable strap that provides wearing options. Click on the picture for more info and to buy.

Chic heels designed to wear (and run in!) all day

A lovely woman who appeared to be in her 40s approached me at a recent social gathering and inquired about high-heel shoes that could be worn comfortably all day - even during commuting time, when many women wear sneakers rather than their office heels. I responded that her question was right on time, because Kenneth Cole has just launched a collection of heels made with a patented cushioning system.

The New York brand’s 925 Technology was named in reference to the average workday and the blisters and aches that so many working women’s feet develop while wearing heels. The line, in Kenneth Cole stores now, combines comfort with style in five Silver Edition shoes ranging from flats to stilettos. All have silver heels. The technology includes a pillowed arch, sheepskin lining, soft rubber soles, and several layers of materials to absorb shock and to mold feet to a comfy foam bed. In the future, the technology will be incorporated into pumps, motorcycle boots and all other Kenneth Cole women’s footwear. You can get the Silver Edition styles now at Kenneth Cole stores while supplies last.

Farah Angsana fuses fantasy and reality in breathtaking bridalwear and couture designs

Vera Wang, Reem Acra, Kenneth Pool, Anne Barge, Romona Keveza, Oscar de la Renta - names that loom large in bridalwear.

But some of today’s most elegant bridal frocks are being crafted by the talented hands of Farah Angsana, an unassuming yet immensely interesting fashion designer who entered the genre only a year ago.

Her aesthetic is informed by her many travels and places of residence, from her native land of Indonesia to years spent growing up in Singapore, London and Los Angeles.

Although as a girl she was unable to sketch concepts or drape fabric, she was inspired by fashion magazines to design clothes for her mother and sister. Then she would take her ideas to a local dressmaker and guide the professional through sketching, fabric selection and creation of garments with a strong emphasis on appearance, texture, drape and movement.

Thus began her desire to create apparel that combined fantasy and reality to make women look elegant and beautiful. Rich colors and luxurious embroideries are hallmarks or her eveningwear and special-occasion looks.

Angsana gained popularity first with cocktail eveningwear for women. She launched her readytowear in 1998, debuted in London in 1999 and moved to Paris the following year, adding daring, debonair menswear to her design repertoire.

In 1990, she began studying fashion design and haute couture technique at the Central School of Fashion in London, finishing in 1992. There she learned about the techniques of such legendary designers as Madame Gres, Valentino and his mentor, Jean Desses.

Angsana devotes her talent and energy to couture and high-end eveningwear and bridalwear, having abandoned sportswear and menswear lines that advisors lured her into for several years. She was the first Indonesian-born designer to show a collection in Paris, taking the Ritz hotel by storm at Paris Fashion Week and winning critical acclaim.

She showed at New York Fashion Week in September 2008. While she divides her time among homes and ateliers in Paris, Zurich, and Como, Italy, some of today’s hottest celebrities are slipping into her lovely frocks. Among those recently photographed wearing her red carpet-ready designs - or modeling them in magazine editorial fashion spreads - are Alicia Silverstone, Marlee Matlin, Olivia Wilde, Teri Hatcher, Sanaa Lathan, Anna Getty, Carrie Underwood, Mary J. Blige and Taraji Henson.

Learn more about Farah Angsana and view more of her designs at www.farahangsana.com.

10 tips for hosting an outrageously successful style swap party

Times are hard. We all know this. (Well, a lot of us do.) It’s a time of cutbacks, conservation, and recycling.

And so the impossible question on the lips of every recessionista is this: How does one maintain fresh style and satisfy the urge to acquire new stuff without spending money?

We have a good answer. It’s called a swap party. Just gather some friends, bring your unwanted but still wearable gear to a designated place, let the trading begin and nobody’s wallet gets hurt.

Here are 10 tips to help you plan a successful event:

1. Choose a venue. A home usually is the cheapest and most comfortable place, but consider how many guests you’ll be inviting and the amount of parking.
2. Carefully create your guest list. While you want to be sure to include your best-dressed friends and acquaintances, be sure to encourage them to invite theirs.
3. Request responses. It’s critical that you know how large the gathering will be so you can plan other details.
4. Contact all invitees with details. Make sure they know that all clothing and accessories should be clean and in good or better condition. And encourage carpooling.
5. Plan a potluck meal. Or, because of varying diets and tastes, ask each invitee to throw in a few dollars each and buy a simple spread from a grocer or deli.
6. Start off eating. It relaxes everyone, allows extra time for latecomers to arrive, and eliminates the chances of getting food or greasy prints on the merchandise.
7. Crank up the stereo. When you’re with food and friends, good music is the icing on the cake.
8. Assign each guest an area to spread out his or her goods. Post signs with names so that everyone will know whose stuff is whose.
9. The rest is simple: Everybody browses the merchandise and takes what they want from others’ “stores”. Trading isn’t necessarily one-on-one, but in the fact that items are changing ownership.
10. At the end of the event, draw names from a hat. Each person will be responsible for taking to the Goodwill or a clothes bank the leftover merchandise of the person whose name he or she drew. That way, nobody goes home with things they don’t want or need and that somebody else could be wearing.

Molton Brown spa facial oils now available to public

One of the tricks of surviving New York fashion week at Bryant Park is finding an alternative to the portable johns and their long lines.

A few seasons ago I learned how to escape to a nearby boutique hotel, which has fairly luxurious restrooms on a lower level. Aside from the solitude and pristine conditions, part of the decidedly more pleasant experience is the selection of Molton Brown products available for use.

From the soaps to the hand lotion, the products are clean, fresh and suitably aromatic. And if you visit one of Molton Brown’s emporia - boutiques lined with hundreds of different products - it’s impossible to leave without a bag full of quality, affordable indulgences for yourself and others.

For a limited time, the British brand has introduced to the public a collection of facial oils normally available only at Molton Brown spas. Tunisian Neroli, Somalian Myrrh and Hungarian Wld Carrot are aromatic skin-repairing potions packed with essential oils and other ingredients to moisturize skin without leaving it as slippery as a buttered fish. The oils also nourish and smoothe skin on the neck and décolletage.

Housed in attractive glass bottles, the oils are $58 each at all emporia locations and at www.moltonbrown.com. Bonus:You can get a complimentary full-size body wash worth $28 with a purchase of at least $60 at any Molton Brown  emporium or the company’s website through Sept. 2. Choose from blissful templetree, ultrasmooth coco de mer, energizing seamoss and bracing silverbirch while supplies last.