Farah Angsana

It’s a common pitfall for designers to come off as costumey or too literal in attempts to channel a particular period or place. But Angsana’s judicious eye and restrained hand showed how cultural homage can and should be tempered with currency, relevance, and wearability. The looks she showed were fresh and sophisticated and would be at home at a local charity gala or on a Hollywood red carpet.

Christian Siriano appears to be finding his voice as an emerging designer. Talented yet a bit inconsistent during the season he won Project Runway, he’s grown appreciably as a young creative talent. His spring sportswear and evening looks for women drew on influences from China, India, and Africa, and for the most part were strong and handsomely tailored.

Christian Siriano

Runway-ready: Lincoln Center debuts this week as new home of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York

Designers from the United States and abroad are lined up to show their spring 2011 collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which starts Thursday and ends Sept. 16. The biggest news so far this season is the move from Bryant Park, which became synonymous with fashion week, to Lincoln Center about 20 blocks uptown.

So it will be interesting to see who shows and who shows up. Despite concern among some designers about moving the twice-yearly event so far from the center of the dying garment district, many have decided to go with the flow, from Michael Kors and Carolina Herrera to Anna Sui and Nautica. For designers like Marc Jacobs who never show at the tents, anyway, it doesn’t matter.

But it remains to be seen how many journalists and other guests will be there. There’s a dearth of hotels near the center, compared to the prior venue, and new

Ports 1969

registration and admission procedures in place definitely discourage crashing.

Some designers are celebrating anniversaries this season. Events around the 10^th anniversary of Perry Ellis’ menswear brand include the spring line preview Sept. 13 at the Lincoln Center. Creative director John Crocco promised a collection that might best be described as “accessible sophistication.” It revives the brand’s sporty heritage with inspiration from French film director Jacques Tati and a palette rich with coral, rose, grass and muskmelon hues.

The presentation will pay tribute to Project Beach, the company’s new project to raise awareness and money for the National Wildlife Federation and the federation’s Gulf Coast restoration work. You can see the show broadcast live at 7 p.m. Monday on PerryEllis.com or on Facebook.com/PerryEllis. Log in 20 minute early and catch behind-the-scenes interviews and backstage footage.

Inspiration is always an interesting story. At Custo Barcelona, for example, the theme Custo Summer Festival describes the positive and playful spirit captured in the “Custo Everyday” daywear and the “Custo Let’s Party” evening collections for men and women. The outrageous color and vibrant personality that have become the brand’s hallmarks are still there, with geometric prints and digital microprints offsetting country and military-inspired looks in denim, linen and over-dyed, sand-washed silks.

One interesting twist is the presence of a brother and sister who will be showing separate collections. Louis and Anasa Greaves are students at Academy of Art University and will preview spring lines at the college’s runway show Friday evening. He will be showing menswear under the brand name Louie Llewellyn and she collaborated on a womenswear line.

There are public and private events all over the city Friday in honor of Fashion’s Night Out, from an event by publisher Assouline celebrating the launch of its new tome on Tommy Hilfiger as he celebrates his iconic brand’s 25^th year to “Cover Girls for Change” featuring fashions by Henry Jackson and other top designers worn by star models of yesteryear such as Pat Cleveland.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has a laundry list of major sponsors. One is Fiji, the official water of the week this time around. The brand also is sponsoring shows by Charlotte Ronson and Project Runway winner Christian Siriano.

Be sure to check out daily coverage here for trend reports, penetrating analysis, newsworthy celebrity sightings (because so many are not), and the general low-down on the whole week.

Preview: Fall menswear a landscape of handsome neutrals

Perry Ellis

The average guy will find plenty in stores this fall to please him, the sort of dark, masculine clothes that are impeccable tailored and easy to wear.

Elie Tahari

Black is the new black, which should excite guys who make it their year-‘round go-to. Shades of gray and browns complement the dominance of neutrals through the coming fall and winter, with the fashion landscape rising just above tedium with bold plaids and other prints and accent colors such as bold greens and rich purples.

Tommy Hilfger

But make no mistake — the emphasis on underwhelming earth tones doesn’t mean menswear will bore anyone to tears. The styles that better American designers have stitched up and retailers are serving up feature body-conscious, fine tailoring and interesting details that present a more refined image.

Tweeds dominate in pants and flannels continue to make a comeback in shirts. The velvet jacket may rule as the must-have casual-meets-dressy garment of the season. Perry Ellis, Boss Hugo Boss and Dolce & Gabbana are among the brands weighing in with an option, and Burberry even has a rich velvet suit due to arrive at retail soon.

The three-piece-suit returns as a major player in menswear for fall and winter, worn to the nines with a crisp shirt and a rich necktie or more casually with a turtleneck and pocket square. Lapels on the vest are an essential tailored touch.

Buckler

Layering is as much a part of winter as bare trees, and outerwear is bigger in proportion with luxury accents such as fur trim and buckles. From dressy to casual, many of the season’s looks are anchored by large boots that balance an almost nerdy vibe with a tough, modern edge.

Great sportswear advice in new Nordstrom men’s style book

Quick, guys: What’s the difference between a woven sport shirt and a knit one, and which is the better choice to wear to a football game?

Okay, that double-barreled style riddle probably wasn’t fair because most men don’t know and may not even care. After all, we live in a time when casual equals thoughtless sloppiness for the majority of American men. But it’s not that way for a growing number of sartorial tie.

A recently published men’s style book by consumer trend expert Tom Julian aims to help such fellows elevate casual to something that conveys an easy elegance and sense of style without sacrificing comfort. Nordstrom Guide to Everyday Dressing is the sequel to 2009’s Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Style (see review on this site). The follow-up is shorter, but it’s just as informative, well written and handsomely illustrated. With a few key pieces in his wardrobe and the right shoes and finishing touches, any man can be casual and polished at work, after work, on weekends, and while traveling.

The manual’s focus is on sportswear, which in recent years has surpassed suits and dressier clothing in the wardrobes of most American men. But just because something is casual doesn’t mean it’s easy to wear well. As Julian notes, “dressing casually can require more thought than wearing a suit.”

From shirts and sweaters to jeans and outerwear, Julian explains why fabrics make the difference and how to select shapes and styles that best suit your body type. He also provides tips on how to care for clothes and how to pack and dress for a casual trip.

Nordstrom Guide to Everyday Dressing, an inexpensive investment that pays big dividends, is $17.95 at Nordstrom and Nordstrom.com.

Oh, and the answer to that initial question? It’s in the book.

Creative, chic collections close out fashion week

As Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week glided to a close last week, more of New York’s big guns lined up at the plate and hit home runs out of the park.

Stephen Burrows

Dennis Basso

Brian Reyes

Badgley Mischka

Luxury without extravagance was the trend. Designers went the extra creative mile, using luxury fabrics, superb tailoring, and embellishment with purpose to nudge consumers toward retail cash registers.

Stephen Burrows used five models to show off a series of edgy day and evening looks to two intimate audiences in his Midtown showroom. A legendary innovator who gave the world the wrap dress, the lettuce hem, and the runway fashion show, Burrows composed a sartorial symphony of fit, drape, and color. From a sexy black motorcycle jacket with matching cropped pants to a regal maroon goddess gown, each look evoked a sense of yesteryear with a hip modern twist.

Badgley Mischka reminded the world why they are a go-to for celebrity dressing and special occasions, sending out a chic two-suite collection that included daywear and eveningwear. Bryan Reyes channeled the faces of nature in a strong and wearable collection of day, evening and outerwear for women, and Dennis Basso was back with smart gem-tone ensembles that incorporated luxury materials ranging from alligator and chinchilla to fox and Finnish raccoon.

Tiger’s attire for press statement a hole-in-one

While time will tell if Tiger Woods’ public statement regarding his adultery was convincing, the disgraced king of golf made excellent fashion choices when he finally faced the public Friday.

Woods, 34, needed to hit the right note sartorially as well as rhetorically for the occasion, the first time he has allowed the public to see him since he crashed his SUV outside his Windermere, Fla. home early Nov. 27. He went into seclusion immediately after the incident, and in ensuing weeks upwards of 20 women went public with sordid stories of sexual trysts and long romantic relationships with the husband and father of two.

Eldrick "Tiger" Woods at his news conference Friday

It was enough to send the world’s number-one golfer from role model on a pedestal to poster child for infidelity faster than you can say “fore!” After that, we had only one glimpse of him until Friday, courtesy of a photo taken of him reportedly at a sex-rehab clinic in Hattiesburg, Miss.

Woods may not have sounded totally convincing during his tightly scripted, overly rehearsed, no-questions-allowed “press conference” Friday. But he couldn’t have dressed more perfectly. He wore three simple pieces that as an ensemble helped rather than hurt his cause.

The dark blazer said, “I take this moment and the audience seriously.” Dark colors connote serious occasions. Black and navy convey a high level of respect for an occasion and for those taking part in it.

The gray trousers said, “I’m a stable, respectable professional.” Gray pants are the go-to for working professionals, easy and familiar and versatile. Gray represents longevity and strength, it suggests reliability, and it is associated with intellect, resoluteness, and dignity.

The pale blue, open-collar shirt said, “It’s a new day and everything’s going to be okay.” Blue is the most popular color, universally loved and connoting truth, constancy, peace, and serenity. An open collar is a sign of vulnerability and invites the other to relax.

Of course, the average person doesn’t consciously process such visual cues. They are taken in subconsciously, subliminal suggestions that something is wrong - or, in Woods’ case, right - with this picture.

Had Woods been dressed too casually, he would have risked being perceived as arrogant or unrepentant. He would have come across as too slick had he worn a suit or even a necktie. Polish would have reminded the public of his fame and wealth when all they really wanted to see was themselves - a flawed human being standing in the need of another chance.

And so, Woods wore no prints or patterns. No bold colors or jewelry. Nothing to distract from his words or to suggest that he was taking the situation lightly.

His youthful face, clean-shaven as always, said, “You can believe in me.” Time will tell if his wife - and legions of fans -are willing to do so again.

American womenswear designers are redefining power dressing for fall-winter 2010

Four of the strongest trends emerging for the season are an incredibly strong military influence; unapologetic opulence and luxury; the ubiquity of grey and its connotations of independence and authority; and black as the new black.

Monique Lhuillier (photo by Ben Nelson, Envision Studio)

Designers are incorporating epaulets, strong shoulders, double-breasted silhouettes, and other military themes into sportswear and even eveningwear. Crystals, jewels, and fur are a bigger part of collections than they have been for several years. Shades of grey are everywhere, from Chanel-like tweed suits to sweaters and dresses. And black is by far the most ubiquitous color coming down runways.

Stir in some other trends — lacey black overlays, fashion boots of all heights, fiercely angled wide-brim hats — and the result is a fabulous femme fatale ready to take on the world.

The key directional look for women is that of a powerful, confident, ladylike sophisticate who not only knows the power of fashion but embraces it as a tool for forging ahead in uncertain, ever-changing times.

The feel of it is, at times, strangely and attractively dark. Such is the case in the collection presented by Monique Lhuillier, which was inspired by Chinese warrior and military suits. With the long sleeves, pronounced shoulders, and high necks in black and navy fabrics, the looks could have become too severe and edgy. But Lhuilier, whose background is in bridal, still struck a feminine and ladylike chord with lacquered velvets, lace and printed jacquards.

Chado Ralph Rucci

For those who still hunger for color, shades of red — key on many runways — and metallics provided welcomed interludes. There was a crimson jacquard strapless dress with a gold leather chain bolero and a glamorous Shanghai red duchess draped gown with a floral skirt.

Carolina Herrera debuted one of her strongest fall-winter lines in years, combining the masculine allure of Prince of Wales and windowpane patterns with the softness of printed silks, intricate embroidery, ruffles, and voluminous sleeves and skirts. There was some black in the palette, but it took a back seat to rich camel, chocolate, deep reds and Prussian blue.

Herrera is about all elegance all the time, whether her client is heading to the office, lunching with a friend, or heading off to a charity gala. So it was no surprise to see looks as diversely gorgeous as black silk crepe wide-leg pants with a black silk belt and a white silk taffeta organza full-sleeve blouse; a camel wool-cashmere cape over a white top with camel-and-ivory mohair windowpane plaid pants and an embroidered, fox-trimmed mohair scarf; and a steel blue and black etched floral jacquard gown cinched with a red eel belt.

Carmen Marc Valvo again did not disappoint, returning to NASDAQ in the heart of Times Square to present a well edited line of dazzling cocktail dresses, gowns, jackets, and other pieces for special occasions. Each ensemble was as sumptuous as the next, from a gold caviar beaded brocade cheongsam under an onyx wool sateen trench to a stunning fan-pleated cocktail dress in malachite metallic brocade.

Carolina Herrera

Valvo went to the well once again to draw deeply from timeless elegance and sophistication, and sharing a sartorial sip with him was completely satisfying.

Show-stopping glamour by Georges Chakra and Zang Toi

There always have been and always will be cheapskates, those for whom a perceived bargain price trumps everything — even poor quality.

ADAM

There is another demographic that influences the economy, especially during recession. While not as visible, this segment of the population keeps the bottom from falling out, preventing a recession from becoming a depression. This cautious consumer — not always a person of wealth — is compelled to buy not necessarily because of cost, but because that object of desire is of undeniable quality and durability. This buyer makes not merely a purchase, but an investment.

Some American designers make a living appealing to this market. Zang Toi and Georges Chakra are two of them, and the fall 2010 womenswear collections they showed yesterday in New York City on the third day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week gave investment dressers something to talk about now and to anticipate at retail later.

Chakra lent elegant shimmer, glimmer and gleam to his 42-ensemble Edition line, presenting a succession of timeless dresses, suits and coats for special occasion and cocktail. The collection was heavily black, a wise choice and the best backdrop for jeweled embellishment, with a number of pieces popping in red, silver, copper, off-white and a regal blue.

He is the new master of the dramatic exit, finishing the backs of dresses and jackets with dramatic and tasteful buttons, lapels, and backlines. He added peak lapels to the back of a Wedgwood blue, short-sleeve cocktail dress, for example, and a silvery lace collar to the back of a copper gabardine lame off-shoulder, long-sleeve suit.

Black lace is emerging as a big fall trend, and Chakra put it to good use. Black Chantilly lace covered a black gabardine strapless cocktail dress as a peekaboo, A-line overlay, took on an elegant edginess as a cocktail pantsuit, and complemented a lovely fitted black tuxedo jacket as a long skirt.

Lacoste

In some of the hottest special-occasion looks seen so far, Chakra sent out a succession of four black beaded chiffon gowns. Each was topped with a distressed and glazed outerwear piece, from a copper satin trench to cropped jackets in navy and red to a red opera trench.

The looks were the sartorial equivalent of sweet and salty — tasty apart, delicious together.

By now, Zang Toi must be accustomed to the bursts of applause that erupt during his shows. Yesterday was no different, with many guests struggling to their feet in the crowded confines of a Manhattan nightclub to give the designer a standing ovation.

Once again, he earned it. The signature color for his fall line is black, with purple as the only secondary color.

He continues to target the confident sophisticate, the woman with great taste who is just enough diva to stand out in a room and just enough lady to look like she isn’t trying.

Toi introduced the collection as “timeless beautied reflecting the mood of the current economy.” He believes that women “who are making serious purchases are seduced by beautifully crafted collections that are stylish and timeless — an investment that never goes out of fashion.”

Georges Chakra

Each of his 29 looks spoke eloquently to that, whether they would be worn to a social lunch or to a formal gala. There was a black cashmere-silk-wool ribbed turtleneck with a black suede high-waisted pencil skirt with a black leather-lace overlay, accessorized with a vintage black fox stole. Then there was a flawlessly chic purple wool tweed suit featuring a mink-trimmed blazer over a sheath dress with a sensual organza illusion front.

There also were fabulous pieces in black and purple mohair-silk hombre, from a sheath dress with side slits to an A-line coat with a matching A-line dress.

Just when you think Toi can wow you no further, he does. The show’s last looks were one-two-three knockout punches: a dazzling black silk-velvet strapless gown with a sparkling crystal and pearl estate necklace with a high neck and bib effect; a stunning black jet bead draped choker above a purple silk organza strapless gown with black sequins and beads in hombre effect; and his head-turning, grand-finale piece de resistance — a black knit strapless minidress sprinkled with purple beaded blossoms worn under a black silk gazar opera coat with pouf sleeves encrusted with purple beaded blossoms.

Any who doubt that such luxurious clothes turned out by the likes of Toi and Chakra will find a home come fall might take a look at history.
Jean Patou’s Joy, the most expensive perfume made up to that point, debuted and sold well during the Great Depression.

Zang Toi

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