Creative, chic collections close out fashion week

As Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week glided to a close last week, more of New York’s big guns lined up at the plate and hit home runs out of the park.

Luxury without extravagance was the trend. Designers went the extra creative mile, using luxury fabrics, superb tailoring, and embellishment with purpose to nudge consumers toward retail cash registers.

Stephen Burrows used five models to show off a series of edgy day and evening looks to two intimate audiences in his Midtown showroom. A legendary innovator who gave the world the wrap dress, the lettuce hem, and the runway fashion show, Burrows composed a sartorial symphony of fit, drape, and color. From a sexy black motorcycle jacket with matching cropped pants to a regal maroon goddess gown, each look evoked a sense of yesteryear with a hip modern twist.

Badgley Mischka reminded the world why they are a go-to for celebrity dressing and special occasions, sending out a chic two-suite collection that included daywear and eveningwear. Bryan Reyes channeled the faces of nature in a strong and wearable collection of day, evening and outerwear for women, and Dennis Basso was back with smart gem-tone ensembles that incorporated luxury materials ranging from alligator and chinchilla to fox and Finnish raccoon.

Tiger’s attire for press statement a hole-in-one

While time will tell if Tiger Woods’ public statement regarding his adultery was convincing, the disgraced king of golf made excellent fashion choices when he finally faced the public Friday.

Woods, 34, needed to hit the right note sartorially as well as rhetorically for the occasion, the first time he has allowed the public to see him since he crashed his SUV outside his Windermere, Fla. home early Nov. 27. He went into seclusion immediately after the incident, and in ensuing weeks upwards of 20 women went public with sordid stories of sexual trysts and long romantic relationships with the husband and father of two.

It was enough to send the world’s number-one golfer from role model on a pedestal to poster child for infidelity faster than you can say “fore!” After that, we had only one glimpse of him until Friday, courtesy of a photo taken of him reportedly at a sex-rehab clinic in Hattiesburg, Miss.

Woods may not have sounded totally convincing during his tightly scripted, overly rehearsed, no-questions-allowed “press conference” Friday. But he couldn’t have dressed more perfectly. He wore three simple pieces that as an ensemble helped rather than hurt his cause.

The dark blazer said, “I take this moment and the audience seriously.” Dark colors connote serious occasions. Black and navy convey a high level of respect for an occasion and for those taking part in it.

The gray trousers said, “I’m a stable, respectable professional.” Gray pants are the go-to for working professionals, easy and familiar and versatile. Gray represents longevity and strength, it suggests reliability, and it is associated with intellect, resoluteness, and dignity.

The pale blue, open-collar shirt said, “It’s a new day and everything’s going to be okay.” Blue is the most popular color, universally loved and connoting truth, constancy, peace, and serenity. An open collar is a sign of vulnerability and invites the other to relax.

Of course, the average person doesn’t consciously process such visual cues. They are taken in subconsciously, subliminal suggestions that something is wrong - or, in Woods’ case, right - with this picture.

Had Woods been dressed too casually, he would have risked being perceived as arrogant or unrepentant. He would have come across as too slick had he worn a suit or even a necktie. Polish would have reminded the public of his fame and wealth when all they really wanted to see was themselves - a flawed human being standing in the need of another chance.

And so, Woods wore no prints or patterns. No bold colors or jewelry. Nothing to distract from his words or to suggest that he was taking the situation lightly.

His youthful face, clean-shaven as always, said, “You can believe in me.” Time will tell if his wife - and legions of fans -are willing to do so again.

American womenswear designers are redefining power dressing for fall-winter 2010

Four of the strongest trends emerging for the season are an incredibly strong military influence; unapologetic opulence and luxury; the ubiquity of grey and its connotations of independence and authority; and black as the new black.

Designers are incorporating epaulets, strong shoulders, double-breasted silhouettes, and other military themes into sportswear and even eveningwear. Crystals, jewels, and fur are a bigger part of collections than they have been for several years. Shades of grey are everywhere, from Chanel-like tweed suits to sweaters and dresses. And black is by far the most ubiquitous color coming down runways.

Stir in some other trends — lacey black overlays, fashion boots of all heights, fiercely angled wide-brim hats — and the result is a fabulous femme fatale ready to take on the world.

The key directional look for women is that of a powerful, confident, ladylike sophisticate who not only knows the power of fashion but embraces it as a tool for forging ahead in uncertain, ever-changing times.

The feel of it is, at times, strangely and attractively dark. Such is the case in the collection presented by Monique Lhuillier, which was inspired by Chinese warrior and military suits. With the long sleeves, pronounced shoulders, and high necks in black and navy fabrics, the looks could have become too severe and edgy. But Lhuilier, whose background is in bridal, still struck a feminine and ladylike chord with lacquered velvets, lace and printed jacquards.

For those who still hunger for color, shades of red — key on many runways — and metallics provided welcomed interludes. There was a crimson jacquard strapless dress with a gold leather chain bolero and a glamorous Shanghai red duchess draped gown with a floral skirt.

Carolina Herrera debuted one of her strongest fall-winter lines in years, combining the masculine allure of Prince of Wales and windowpane patterns with the softness of printed silks, intricate embroidery, ruffles, and voluminous sleeves and skirts. There was some black in the palette, but it took a back seat to rich camel, chocolate, deep reds and Prussian blue.

Herrera is about all elegance all the time, whether her client is heading to the office, lunching with a friend, or heading off to a charity gala. So it was no surprise to see looks as diversely gorgeous as black silk crepe wide-leg pants with a black silk belt and a white silk taffeta organza full-sleeve blouse; a camel wool-cashmere cape over a white top with camel-and-ivory mohair windowpane plaid pants and an embroidered, fox-trimmed mohair scarf; and a steel blue and black etched floral jacquard gown cinched with a red eel belt.

Carmen Marc Valvo again did not disappoint, returning to NASDAQ in the heart of Times Square to present a well edited line of dazzling cocktail dresses, gowns, jackets, and other pieces for special occasions. Each ensemble was as sumptuous as the next, from a gold caviar beaded brocade cheongsam under an onyx wool sateen trench to a stunning fan-pleated cocktail dress in malachite metallic brocade.

Valvo went to the well once again to draw deeply from timeless elegance and sophistication, and sharing a sartorial sip with him was completely satisfying.

Show-stopping glamour by Georges Chakra and Zang Toi

There always have been and always will be cheapskates, those for whom a perceived bargain price trumps everything — even poor quality.

There is another demographic that influences the economy, especially during recession. While not as visible, this segment of the population keeps the bottom from falling out, preventing a recession from becoming a depression. This cautious consumer — not always a person of wealth — is compelled to buy not necessarily because of cost, but because that object of desire is of undeniable quality and durability. This buyer makes not merely a purchase, but an investment.

Some American designers make a living appealing to this market. Zang Toi and Georges Chakra are two of them, and the fall 2010 womenswear collections they showed yesterday in New York City on the third day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week gave investment dressers something to talk about now and to anticipate at retail later.

Chakra lent elegant shimmer, glimmer and gleam to his 42-ensemble Edition line, presenting a succession of timeless dresses, suits and coats for special occasion and cocktail. The collection was heavily black, a wise choice and the best backdrop for jeweled embellishment, with a number of pieces popping in red, silver, copper, off-white and a regal blue.

He is the new master of the dramatic exit, finishing the backs of dresses and jackets with dramatic and tasteful buttons, lapels, and backlines. He added peak lapels to the back of a Wedgwood blue, short-sleeve cocktail dress, for example, and a silvery lace collar to the back of a copper gabardine lame off-shoulder, long-sleeve suit.

Black lace is emerging as a big fall trend, and Chakra put it to good use. Black Chantilly lace covered a black gabardine strapless cocktail dress as a peekaboo, A-line overlay, took on an elegant edginess as a cocktail pantsuit, and complemented a lovely fitted black tuxedo jacket as a long skirt.

In some of the hottest special-occasion looks seen so far, Chakra sent out a succession of four black beaded chiffon gowns. Each was topped with a distressed and glazed outerwear piece, from a copper satin trench to cropped jackets in navy and red to a red opera trench.

The looks were the sartorial equivalent of sweet and salty — tasty apart, delicious together.

By now, Zang Toi must be accustomed to the bursts of applause that erupt during his shows. Yesterday was no different, with many guests struggling to their feet in the crowded confines of a Manhattan nightclub to give the designer a standing ovation.

Once again, he earned it. The signature color for his fall line is black, with purple as the only secondary color.

He continues to target the confident sophisticate, the woman with great taste who is just enough diva to stand out in a room and just enough lady to look like she isn’t trying.

Toi introduced the collection as “timeless beautied reflecting the mood of the current economy.” He believes that women “who are making serious purchases are seduced by beautifully crafted collections that are stylish and timeless — an investment that never goes out of fashion.”

Each of his 29 looks spoke eloquently to that, whether they would be worn to a social lunch or to a formal gala. There was a black cashmere-silk-wool ribbed turtleneck with a black suede high-waisted pencil skirt with a black leather-lace overlay, accessorized with a vintage black fox stole. Then there was a flawlessly chic purple wool tweed suit featuring a mink-trimmed blazer over a sheath dress with a sensual organza illusion front.

There also were fabulous pieces in black and purple mohair-silk hombre, from a sheath dress with side slits to an A-line coat with a matching A-line dress.

Just when you think Toi can wow you no further, he does. The show’s last looks were one-two-three knockout punches: a dazzling black silk-velvet strapless gown with a sparkling crystal and pearl estate necklace with a high neck and bib effect; a stunning black jet bead draped choker above a purple silk organza strapless gown with black sequins and beads in hombre effect; and his head-turning, grand-finale piece de resistance — a black knit strapless minidress sprinkled with purple beaded blossoms worn under a black silk gazar opera coat with pouf sleeves encrusted with purple beaded blossoms.

Any who doubt that such luxurious clothes turned out by the likes of Toi and Chakra will find a home come fall might take a look at history.
Jean Patou’s Joy, the most expensive perfume made up to that point, debuted and sold well during the Great Depression.

Cynthia Steffe: lovely fusion of romantic, military

Sometimes strong designer labels falter for one reason or another, whether there’s a new creative talent calling the shots or the brand fails to remain relevant or true to its clientele.

It’s always good to see them rebound, returning better than ever. That’s what appears to be happening at Cynthia Steffe with Shaun Kearney at the helm as the latest creative director.

Kearney brought significant experience and skill to the table when he too charge first for the spring 2009 collection, having designed womenswear for Donna Karan, Kenneth Cole, and Max Mara.

The fall-winter collection Kearney sent out yesterday managed to fuse the best of both. He fused the comfort and fit of Karan, the young urban flair of Cole, and the easy sophistication of Max Mara, a synthesis that was lovely and fresh.

The collection exuded a vivacious exuberance, a joie de vie sorely missing from a season rife with neutrals as dreary as Ohio in January. For clothes to be desired, fit and function are not enough for many women. They want the life and energy that color brings, and Cynthia Steffe is serving it up for fall.

One of the trends emerging in fall womenswear is the juxtaposition of hard and soft, tough and tender. Kearney’s take was a seamless fusion of military and romance that provided structure without rigidity and polish without formality. There were cropped jackets and short pleated skirts, cardigans and slouchy sweaters, shrunken suits and pretty dresses layered over white t-shirts.

Kearney chose dark neutrals — black, navy and gray, which are favorites among designers for fall. He also introduced two gorgeous prints that complemented the palette.

The collection will have strong hanger appeal at retail. For shoppers who aren’t sure what to wear with what, take a hint from the runway show. Wear the chic chocolate and ivory tweed cape with the ivory georgette ruffle blouse and moleskin pocket skirt, for example, or the black pleated wool skirt with the beautiful faded floral print cotton silk trench coat with satin and leather insets.

Angsana reigns on NY fashion week’s first day

Farah Angsana showed up and showed off at Bryant Park yesterday.

Her line of cocktail, evening, and special-occasion looks for fall-winter 2010 gave a jolt to the opening day of Mercerdes-Benz Fashion Week in Midtown Manhattan, electrifying an audience during an otherwise ho-hum day. As they left the show, some guests praised the line as the best they had seen all day.

For many, Angsana came out of nowhere.  She showed her first special-occasion collection last September at  a nearby hotel during fashion week. Before that, she had become an acccomplished designer of bridalwear, a subcategory of fashion with a much smaller base and less media exposure.

But the fall-winter line she debuted inside the big white tents yesterday was, look for look,  one to rival anything done by the likes of Badgley Mischka, Carolina Herrera, and Oscar de la Renta. Like Monique Lhuillier and Vera Wang before her, Angsana made a logical creative progression from wedding gowns to after-five ensembles. Her leap, however, was more appreciable in terms of creativity and sheer beauty.

Spontaneous applause marked several “aaah” moments during the runway show. Angsana incorporated touches of lace, sequins, feathers, and fur into jackets, dresses, and gowns cut from luxurious silks, cashmere, and chiffon. Her palette encompassed black, metallics, scarlet, and rich shades of blue and purple.

Angsana gave Hollywood’s A-list women ample reasons to look her up when it’s time to stroll the red carpet. At the same time, there was plenty to appeal to ordinary women who want to look extraordinary for a special affair: a black silk chiffon halter dress with a hand-pleated bodice worn under a black silk wool evening coat detailed with ostrich feathers and black sequins; a Lurex-woven gunmetal evening coat with silver fox cuffs and collar; a fuchsia silk duchess one-shoulder evening gown with a black floral-sequined tulle overlay; and her final showstopper, a dramatic scarlet silk gazar gown with a crystal and sequin bodice and a layered bias-front petal skirt.

Angsana is a designer with a sharp eye and a deft hand who knows how to manipulate and embellish fabric so that her creations are wearably elegant and don’t cross the line into costume or cliche. She’s a breath of fresh air, one to watch for years to come.

Other shows from Thursday:

Ports 1961

One of Tia Cibani’s strengths as a designer is that her concepts are consistently intelligent and inspired. One of the dangers ever present is that the process could become so cerebral and technical that something essential is lost in translation. We are, after all, talking about clothes that must be worn and that ultimately must make sense. That said, the organic and innovative vibe of past-meets-future that gives Ports fashion so much of its unique appeal was a bit overwrought and at times confusing in the latest collection. There were some moments nwhere it soared, however, from gorgeous print dresses in silk and velvet to a jumpsuit, cape coat, and dolman-sleeve dress in a lovely flecked gray dubbed “pepper.”

BCBG Max Azria

The BCBG girl is one who never grows up. She’s happy to live every moment of her life in loose, deconstructed garments with just enough tuck and drape to look like they weren’t home-ec projects. The problem is, each look comes off as indulgently self-derivative as the one before, differnt only in color and pattern.  This time around, belts were used to cinch tops and dresses, and  bias and handkerchief hems managed to extend the life of a well worn cliche. The most interpreting looks were the handful that were more tailored and fit. They almost seemed to nudge the BCBG girl reluctantly toward maturity rather nthan allowing her to remain a fashion victim trapped in an optionless past.

Farah Angsana

Mackage

Well known for great-looking coats and outerwear, the brand has made a foray into complete looks for men and women. It was a smart move. Who among Mackage’s devotees wouldn’t want the chance to wear an entire Mackage ensemble? While fellows are sure to find several coats and jackets to make their own come autumn, ladies who appreciate sexy and smart day-to-evening ensembles are sure to fall in love with dresses and jackets in menswear-inspired checks.

Finally, shoes uglier than original Crocs

Serious singers know that sometimes they have to make the face real ugly to create the best sound. Just ask super-talents like Jennifer Holliday and Rachelle Ferrell. Well, there’s a similar strain of thought in the world of revolutionary footwear manufacturers - that a shoe not only must perform heads and shoulders above the competitors, but it’s got to be ugly, to boot.

So I got a good laugh recently when my friend Patty alerted me to a freakishly hideous shoe out there that manages to make Crocs look like Ferragamos.

They’re called FiveFingers, and they’re made by Vibram. The shoes have patented technology that allows wearers to experience the freedom and feel of going barefoot, but with protection and grip. From ordinary people to a variety of athletes, many wearers claim the shoes provide better balance, greater agility, improved posture. The designs, which cost about $90 a pair, were even named one of Time Magazine’s Best Inventions of 2007.

But when it comes to aesthetics, the lightweight, insulated footwear leave much to be desired. They look like rubberized feet painted in various colors.

And just when I thought I wouldn’t see anything uglier until at least the next Marc Jacobs or Vivienne Westwood collection, along comes a doosy by Alexander McQueen. His high-heeled “Armadillo” shoes are eerily reminiscent of the animal’s body shape and stand a jaw-dropping 12 inches tall.

They are fascinatingly hideous, the E.T. of the footwear industry. Their price? From around $550 to upwards of $4,000 for exotic-skin styles. Kelis and Lady Gaga have been spotted wearing them.

By a show of hands, who thinks these foot-bending, absurdly priced monstrosities would sell like hotcakes if they were made by Betty Anderson? Who’s Betty Anderson? Precisely my point.

Miguel Androver and hessnatur a natural fit

Miguel Androver, one of the hottest designers to emerge in the last decade, views fashion as a medium for social messages. “My collections,” he once said, “attempt to open up the eyes of the people of our society.”

Now he’s designing for a brand with the same eye-opening, awareness-raising philosophy.

Hessnatur produces natural, earth-friendly clothing that is more attractive and luxurious than traditional bland, burlap-sacky natural apparel. The company uses 100% organic cotton and is working toward all materials being purely organic natural fibers.

Respectful of the environment and those involved in making the company’s clothing, hessnatur has received a Public Eye Award, which is presented annually at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland. Hessnatur was lauded for its leading social and environmental practices.

Androver came on board last year as creative director for the fall-winter 2009 collection. His first spring offering for the label will be available starting in March. Spanish-born Androver, winner of the CFDA Award for best new designer nearly a decade ago, infuses garments with the same unusual materials and unexpected volume that helped make him a standout from the beginning of his career.

Hessnatur CEO Wolf Luedge used Androver’s own words to explain what made the 44-year-old, self-taught talent attractive to the brand. “It is what he believes - ‘I can’t think about doing only fashion if it’s not related to something relevant’ - that makes him the perfect creative director for hessnatur, said Luedge. “He is, literally, a natural fit. He was the only decision we pursued for this new role, because his philosophy mirrors that of our company.”

Based in Germany but with international markets, hessnatur makes clothing for men, women, children, and babies. It was founded in 1976 by naturalist Heinz Hess when he couldn’t find organic clothing for his newborn son. As demand for his products grew, he initiated organic cotton-growing projects, first in Sekem, Egypt and then in Peru, Senegal, Turkey, and Burkina Faso.

Hess died in 2006, a year after hessnatur became the first German company to be certified by FairWear, a foundation that promotes fair labor conditions in the textile-production industry worldwide.

Bryant Park bids adieu to NY fashion week

Inquiring minds are wondering how this Feb. 11-18 will be commemorated as the last season that New York’s twice-yearly fashion shows will be staged at Bryant Park. Will any designers salute the storied Midtown setting in their shows? Will event organizers memorialize it on billboards, the tent’s façade, or on the coveted registration goodie bag?

Whatever happens- or doesn’t - TheStyleArbiter.com will be there to document, describe, and deconstruct for your reading pleasure.

More than 100 fall-winter 2010 collections will be shown. As always, Bryant Park will be the hub of the action with eight days of morning-to-night shows in the white, three-venue tent beginning with Mackage at 9 a.m. Feb. 11 and ending with Tommy Hilfiger’s presentation at 8 p.m. Feb.18. Some designers and labels plan presentations at their showroom or other off-site locations, but still under the auspices of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

There are many fashion week events planned outside that purview. One of the best-organized and increasingly popular is the 6^th annual STYLE360, a fashion showcase Feb. 13-17 at Studio 37 that this year will feature designers such as Emu Australian, Claudestine Industries by Pete Wentz, bebe Kardashian hosted by Kim Kardashian, and Project Runway alum Malan Breton. The event has attracted some major sponsors, including Sephora, Tigi, TONY&GUY, and Sony.

Meanwhile, IMG, the parent company of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, has lined up more than a dozen major backers in addition to the title sponsor. TRESemme, Maybelline, American Express, Chambord, Rums of Puerto Rico, and AOL are among them. Tent guests who guzzled tens of thousands of free McCafe sweet coffees the last two seasons are sure to swig record amounts of similar beverages by the sponsor replacing McDonald’s with that freebie - Starbucks.

Perks aside, fashion week is foremost about what American designers will be wanting us to wear come autumn. Along with new visions are some new faces - and old faces in new places.

Coach president and creative director Reed Krakoff, who engineered the luxury brand’s international presence and stratospheric ascent, is debuting his much-anticipated accessories line, which bears his name. I still remember the launch of the first Coach fragrance at one of his private residences in Manhattan during the February 2007 fashion week. This is a man who knows something about luxury.

Generra has been around for a while, but this season will mark the debut of the first full men’s and women’s collections spearheaded by creative directors Christina and Swaim Hutson. The lifestyle brand recently brought the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund-nominated duo onboard to inject a fresh perspective.

Custo Bareclona, known for graphic color and pattern combinations in edgy sportswear for men and women, is projectiung a more energetic and contemporary vibe with a collection themed “Hairy Metal.” It fuses the coolness of metallic bronzes, golds, and steel with the warmth of fur and dusty blues and mauves in dramatically accessorized ensembles that are architectural yet still sensual.

Vivienne Tam will present her newest collection, “Chinese Zodiac,” in celebration of 2010 as the year of the tiger. Rebecca Taylor will show a women’s sportswear line inspired by an urban New York City girl with 70’s Parisian attitude and an urban New York City girl. Tracy Reese is serving up “an eclectic mix of urban and rural style,” Milly’s Michelle Smith took her cues from chic girls of Paris’ Left Bank, and Elie Tahari pays homage to “the great women who traveled the globe in style.”

As event organizers plan to move fashion week to the Lincoln Center starting in September with the spring 2011 collections, the industry’s titans will be at Bryant Park starting Thursday for the site’s last hurrah.

“Bryant Park became the beacon of what U.S. fashion stands for - fearless, tireless, and always moving forward,” said Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

TheStyleArbiter.com will keep you updated on the trends for fall-winter 2010 with daily coverage.

Rockport’s ‘Lexington’ bridges boot, sneaker

More men are discovering what some of us fellows have known for years - that a hip wardrobe is incomplete without at least one pair of boots.

We’re not talking about brogans, Timbs, Wellies, or even cowboy boots, all of which have a place in the well dressed man’s closet. We’re referring to fashion boots. The kind that can go with jeans or a suit. The kind that have you feeling and walking taller. The kind that compel people to tell me “I like your shoes,” and then smile in mild surprise as I lift a pant leg and reply, “Thanks, they’re boots.”

They’re also practical, especially in winter, when they help shield the ankles from frigid wind, snow and rain. I have several pairs by Aldo, and Kenneth Cole and Hugo Boss currently have some hot styles out. They have influenced the return of high-top sneakers, which in many cases are getting a dressier look.

I recently saw a style by Rockport that vaulted to the top of my wish list. It’s called the Lexington, and it looks like a hybrid between a boot, a high-top sneaker, and an old-fashioned boxing shoe. It comes in the obligatory black, but the version in a burgundy-maroon shade called “sumac berry” is much more interesting. You can click on the picture to see more hot footwear for men and women by Rockport.

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