Spring 2010 fashions to be previewed at New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

New York’s fashion week officially kicks off Sept.10,and this one is significant because it’s the last season it will be staged at Bryant Park in Midtown Manhattan.

Before Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week relocates  to the Lincoln Center beginning with the fall’10 collections in February 2010, the final hurrah at the park will see many familiar faces.

Michael Angel kicks off the tent shows at 9 a.m. Sept.10, and Tommy Hilfiger closes the week on the 17^th at 8 p.m. Between are nearly80 other scheduled shows at the site, including swimwear labels Rosa Cha and Gottex, Ports 1961, Cesar Galindo, Zac Posen, Diane von Furstenberg, Tadashi Shoji, Anna Sui, Ralph Lauren, and Ralph Rucci.

Max Azria has once again designed three collections that will be showing, including his signature line, Herve Leger, and BCBG. Among those showing off-site, some independently from event organizer IMG, are Rachel Roy, Zang Toi, Farah Angsana, Halston, Peter Som, Richard Chai, Marc Jacobs, Kai Milla (Stevie Wonder’s wife), and New York-based international designer Henry Jackson with a tribute to Michelle Obama.

Designers and their staffs put months of planning and tens of thousands of dollars into what on average boils down to a 12-minute show. But creating a buzz about their brand and being the subject of photos transmitted around the world is, many find, worth the stress and expense.

To most designers, fashion week is a chance to share their vision of how you and I should dress. Molly Grad is debuting as head of swimwear design for Gottex. She brings to the brand undergraduate and graduate degrees from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and design stints at Stella McCartney, Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent, and Gianfranco Ferre.

“Gottex has an amazing heritage,” she said. “I am going to take the DNA of the brand and give it a fresh direction without forsaking its incredible past.”

Many designers are promising lots of colors to reflect optimism and an upbeat attitude. Says Milly designer Michelle Smith: “My spring collection is inspired by intoxicating exotic colors, luxurious fabrics and rich textures translated into accessible city-chic shapes; offering women a channel of escape with fresh and sophisticated combinations in modern silhouettes.”

Rebecca Taylor pays homage to the city girl with urban feminine looks features strong shoulders and hourglass waists. She’ll be sending out architectural stretch dresses, corset-inspired bustiers, flippy print skirts, leather minis, sporty cashmere sweaters and towering print sandals. A mélange of points and textures are punched up with colors such as apple red, electric blue, shocking pink, peachy orange, jade and desert tan.

Tracy Reese explores the ying and the yang, juxtaposing structured and relaxed, sheer and opaque, soft and hard. She’s doing layers, lively prints, bold colors, embellishments, ruching and draping.

And she promises more of the impeccable dresses that have made her a household name. “A passion fruit surplice frock in a relaxed, draped silhouette with textural embellishment is the perfect piece to kick off the season with a look that is elegant with edge,” she said.

Cesar Galindo fuses fantasy and fun with tailored gowns, cocktail dresses, and suiting in silk charmeuse, foiled linens, chiffons and other fabrics in shades of red, fuchsia, orange, gold, silver and taupe and accented with metal, beads, and mesh.

“The current moment dictates original design desires, and my clientele expects pieces which take them places and allow them to be feminine, beautiful, captivating, and not basic at this point in time,” he said. “They seek looks which are classic, forward, and filled with fantasy. Fantasy is part of the modern movement currently at hand, and I intend to reflect on it with this collection.”

The main lobby of the tents is the hub of action and lots of freebies. The TRESemme booth will return, as well as McCafe Coffees for the second season with free beverages. Maybelline New York and O.N.E. Water are new to the venue while Chambord is once again the official liqueur of the event, with the spotlight this time on its black raspberry liqueur and free special fashion week cocktails made from it.

Throughout September, scores of fashion and style events are scheduled across New York that capitalize on the global media spotlight. Many are listed on the exhaustive Fashion Calendar, which costs $100 to buy and is compiled and circulated independently of IMG.

One of the many events of note is a sale of Susan Farber Collections handbags on Gilt Fuse beginning Sept. 3. Fringes are hot, and many of her soft Italian leather bags feature them and other fashionable design elements. It’s no wonder the line is a favorite of stores from Henri Bendel to Harvey Nichols and fashion magazines such as Elle and Lucky. Click on the promotional link http://www.giltfuse.com/thestylearbiter using the promo code thstylearbiter for special access.

Donna Karan’s Black Cashmere among the best

Seven years ago during New York Fashion Week, Donna Karan invited me to her showroom on Manhattan’s Upper East Side for the unveiling of her newest scent, Black Cashmere. As I settled into a comfortable chair, two lovely young women described the fragrance as they massaged my hands with the scented lotion. I couldn’t discern whether the warm, sensual, Oriental aroma - housed in a flacon shaped like a smooth black stone - was for men or women. I was told that it was blended so that anyone could wear it. Given the buying habits of the American consumer, it was no surprise that women would be targeted in advertising and promotion. I still have some of the eau de parfum and body wash they gave me that September day. I use them rarely and sparingly, and receive compliments each time I do. It’s hard to believe that the prodicts have lost none of their original quality. But then again, that should be the nature of any scent worth its salt.

Real men can wear pearl, too

Someone once said that the pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens. While most women learn by adulthood that a pearl necklace and earrings are musts for her jewelry wardrobe, few fellows realize that pearl can be a classic component in their collection of sartorial accoutrements. One easy way for men to incorporate pearl is in a tie tack or bar. Another, more interesting, way is in a set of handsome cuff links. They make good gifts for groomsmen and for occasions such as Fathers Day, birthdays and anniversaries. Pearls are organic gems produced by living organisms, which puts them in the same family as coral, amber, ivory and shell.

They’re usually carved and polished rather than faceted like mineral gems, and are fairly low-maintenance. They occur naturally in black, champagne and other colors. But they are most common in their natural whitish hue, which ages ago caused some Arab cultures to view pearls as tears of the gods.

Carry your cell phone and computer with style

Luxurious, durable leather goods never go out of style, and there’s more demand than ever with the rise of computers, cell phones and other consumer electronics and technological doodads. With brands such as Ireland-based Octo, you don’t have to pay insanely high prices for avant-garde, sophisticated design. Consider the features of just two of the brand’s items.

The Apple iPhone 3G ribbon case boats seamless Italian leather, stainless steel finishing and a microfiber lining. It comes in a dozen colors and smooth or croc-texture finish. You can carry your Apple MacBook Air in equally elegant style with a similar seamless Italian leather sleeve free of magnets, zippers and straps. It comes in six colors with smooth or embossed leather. Check out these and other striking, apart-from-the-pack accessories for discerning men and women at OCTO Style.

80’s ‘it’ bag brand Aigner still going strong

The clutch may well be the dominant handbag style of the year, but a great purse in any shape will always grab a woman’s attention. As fashion brands popular in the Eighties continue to surge in popularity, Etienne Aigner, the darling of that decade, launches a series of new designs that remind the public why they were Everywoman’s “it” bag a generation ago. Aigner’s Westchester satchel is a beauty to behold.

Beyond its gorgeous exterior, the roomy interior features a zipper compartment with four slide pockets and a zipper pocket on the back wall. The bag also comes with an 18-inch detachable strap that provides wearing options. Click on the picture for more info and to buy.

Chic heels designed to wear (and run in!) all day

A lovely woman who appeared to be in her 40s approached me at a recent social gathering and inquired about high-heel shoes that could be worn comfortably all day - even during commuting time, when many women wear sneakers rather than their office heels. I responded that her question was right on time, because Kenneth Cole has just launched a collection of heels made with a patented cushioning system.

The New York brand’s 925 Technology was named in reference to the average workday and the blisters and aches that so many working women’s feet develop while wearing heels. The line, in Kenneth Cole stores now, combines comfort with style in five Silver Edition shoes ranging from flats to stilettos. All have silver heels. The technology includes a pillowed arch, sheepskin lining, soft rubber soles, and several layers of materials to absorb shock and to mold feet to a comfy foam bed. In the future, the technology will be incorporated into pumps, motorcycle boots and all other Kenneth Cole women’s footwear. You can get the Silver Edition styles now at Kenneth Cole stores while supplies last.

Michael Jackson’s face and fashion were as captivating as his music

The public may never know what Michael Jackson wore at his funeral, how he was dressed in the closed, rose-covered golden casket in which he was memorialized and buried Tuesday.

Was the King of Pop wearing a leather motorcycle jacket? A bespoke suit and skinny necktie? One of his sparkling military-style jackets? Black loafers and white socks? A single sequined glove?

We may never know. But we do know that in life, he was a force of nature whose style, sense of fashion and visual transformation were as captivating as his singing and dancing.

During Jackson’s decades in show business, he set fashion trends with a number of signature accessories: aviator sunglasses, black fedoras, dark loafers with white socks, that famous glove. His wardrobe was influenced by and reflected a fascination with fantasy, sci-fi, cinema, theater, cartoons, royalty and the military.

He revealed something of himself, the yin and the yang of sequins and buckles, leather and gauze, high-water tuxedo pants and white V-neck undershirts. He combined the tough with the delicate, hard with soft, macho with feminine, extravagant with ordinary. In the process, he reflected every social class and none, every ethnicity and none, both genders and neither.

When Jackson performed at the Motown 25 anniversary special in 1983 and set the world abuzz with the moonwalk - a dance move actually done as far back as the 1950s - he complemented his sequined white glove with a sparkling black jacket that his sister Latoya later said was actually a gift from her to their mother. A week ago, one celebrity news magazine included a pictorial on several articles of clothing that Jackson had recently worn that were adapted from womenswear runway looks by designers such as Balmain.

If Jackson’s fashion choices began to blur gender lines in recent years, his face became a study in androgyny. It morphed dramatically over the last 30 years with an estimated 50-plus cosmetic procedures on nose, eyes, cheeks, lips, chin.

As hair trends changed over the decades, Jackson went from afro to Jheri curl to perms. Few knew that he wore wigs in recent years due to hair loss and a large mass of scar tissue on his scalp that resulted from his hair catching fire during taping of a Pepsi commercial in 1984. The rate at which Jackson’s hair got straighter over the years was eclipsed only by the speed at which his skin got lighter. He claimed vitiligo, but others pointed to skin-bleaching creams he used for many years.

Glancing at a head shot of a pale, heavily made-up Jackson at the age of 50, it wasn’t clear whether he was male or female, black or white. Perhaps no one in the history of celebrity had engineered a more total visual transformation, one that became more jarring and tragic as time went on. By the sad end, he had achieved a look that no one could quite understand.

Part of the explanation lies in Jackson’s own insecurities and self-hatred, in the pressure on people of color to conform to a European standard of beauty and especially on darker-skinned celebrities to become more widely accepted. Part of the explanation lies, too, in Western cultures’ obsession with the myth of eternal youth. Celebrities are under greater pressure than the rest of us to look immortally young, and their efforts fuel the multibillion-dollar industries of physical augmentation and anti-aging skincare.

In the final analysis, Jackson’s face and fashion reflected a failure to achieve his goal of transcending the limits of gender, race, age and time. He crafted an image that was, in many ways, as universal as his music. But ultimately, the face that he left this world with was not one that even he appeared to love.

Though in many ways larger than life, Michael Jackson was just another human being with his share of weaknesses, frailties and limitations. The difference is that his were exposed on a global stage. With that in mind, one can only hope that his contributions to music, the arts, charities, and humanitarian efforts will be remembered long after what he looked like is forgotten.

‘Goodwill hunting’ at thrift shops nets cheap thrills

Guest columnist:  Debbie Norrell

Thrift shopping isn’t for everyone, so I normally make it a solo event. However, so many people have been impressed with my “cheap thrills” finds that they’ve asked to come along when I go on one of my Goodwill Hunting Tours.

My favorite pastime is canvassing the city for hidden treasure in thrift stores, consignment shops, flea markets and deep discounters. This is not for the meek or inexperienced shopper, or the shopping diva who is looking for matching pants and jackets that scream her name from the same rack.

I’ve been thrift shopping for more than 25 years. When I was doing costumes for the Wilkinsburg Arts Theatre in Pittsburgh, I always found great wardrobe items that fit into my limited budget. So great, in fact, that many of the actors “liberated” them from the theatre after the show closed. By the way - that’s the ultimate compliment.

I also found great things for myself. It was a good way to get my shop on and not use my credit cards. This is especially important if you’re working toward freedom from debt. Remember, your income is your largest wealth-building tool.

While thrift stores are rich with bargains and mark-downs, a bargain isn’t a bargain if you bring home something you don’t need or already have three of in your closet. If you’re between sizes or looking for something for a special occasion, consignment or thrift stores may be the best place to find that “I’m only going to wear it once” outfit.

Suppose you’re in the market for a new job and you’ve been out of the interviewing process for a while. When you go on an interview, you want to dress one level higher than the current daily dress code of the potential employer. So, if they are business casual every day, you want to dress in business attire. You can find a wide array of business clothing at thrift and consignment shops.

Here are a few thrift-shopping tips to try on for size:

• Know quality when you see it and don’t be strictly a “label” shopper.
• Know your size and measurements. Take a measuring tape with you for a sure fit.
• Know that some thrift stores don’t have dressing rooms, so be prepared to try things on somewhat publicly.
• Have the number of a good tailor or seamstress. Sometimes that great bargain may need to be hemmed or altered in some other way.
• Be aware of current styles. You don’t want your thrift store find to scream “thrift store” or “dated”.
• Stick to a budget. Carry cash, because many stores take cash only and do not accept checks or credit cards.

Debbie Norrell is lifestyle editor for the New Pittsburgh Courier and frequently speaks to groups about “how to break the chains of debt while still getting your shop on.” She may be contacted  at www.debbienorrell.com.

New Havaiana flip-flop glows in the dark

Some things have become such a fixture of New York Fashion Week that the semiannual event wouldn’t seem right without them. The MAC lounge is one and Judith Ripka’s fine jewelry boutique is another. But more popular than either and perhaps anything else is the booth where anyone inside the Bryant Park tents can get a free pair of semi-custom Havaianas. To the uninitiated, Havaianas are comfortable, durable, affordable, Brazilian-made flip-flops. Many consider them the best in the world. And while they are readily available to the masses, there are always men and women willing to wait in a long line - often for more than an hour - to have a pair assembled in the colors of their choice. After several seasons of creating limited-edition looks for show guests of designers such as Rosa Cha and for the event’s title sponsor, Mercedes-Benz, the company has just launched a style that glows in the dark. The ” Cool” design comes in three color schemes and is $28 a pair at havaianasus.com. They’re sure to add interest to sunset beach parties, garden soirees and twilight strolls. And you don’t have to worry about losing them in the dark.

Retail icon, trend expert publish men’s style guide

It’s not hard to imagine what you get when you combine a leading fashion retailer and one of the world’s foremost fashion and consumer trend experts. If what you get is a book, then it’s bound to be one of the most valuable resources any man of style can own. And its title is probably Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Style.

Released May 15, the 155-page hardback (Chronicle, $19.95) is Pittsburgh native Tom Julian’s first, as well as Nordstrom’s first focused on the retailer’s storied heritage of dressing men impeccably since the 1960s. It begins with a quiz that helps guys identify their style ID: luxury, classic, contemporary or trendy. (Or a combination, like me and many other men.) Then it’s quickly on to details about wardrobe essentials that fit properly and look debonair for each lifestyle.

Julian’s tone is refreshing, with just enough humor. He is authoritative without talking down to readers, affirming every man’s potential to be stylish rather than seeking to make debonair the domain of an exclusive few. The manual is loaded with practical, step-by-step advice that takes guys from basics such as matching shirts and ties to more sophisticated matters of style such as choosing custom suit details. The informational flow is logical and a cinch to follow, from the basics about essential garments such as shirts, pants and jackets to fabric attributes and correct fit. There’s also interesting “Did you know?” fashion trivia throughout.

Shoes, neckwear and formalwear - sticky wickets for many fellows - get deserved attention. There are tips on how to clean garments, how to treat stains and how to pack smartly for a trip. More than just attractive design elements, the photos and diagrams by Nordstrom staff show and tell how to achieve a desired look with relative ease. Plus, each chapter has an “Ask the Nordstrom tailor” section with answers to relevant, commonly asked questions on each topic.

The project “was sheer joy because everybody came to the table with something,” said Julian. The book was completed in less than seven months, unusually fast. Julian credits collaborative chemistry between writer, publisher and client for keeping the project on track. Nordstrom is a client of Julian’s Manhattan-based company, Tom Julian Group, and Pete Nordstrom penned an engaging foreword.

From the sartorially savvy high school teen heading off to college to the mature gentleman well along in his life and career, every fellow should own Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Style. It’s available at Nordstrom stores, Nordstrom.com, Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble and other book stores.

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