Fall’09 fashion a more somber elegance

With the advent of fall, the global recession has taken its most visible toll yet on fashion. From pronounced shoulders to a somber color palette, the styles coming forth this fall and winter hearken back to the era of the last recession - the Eighties.

But there’s something persistently optimistic this time around. It’s reflected in the luxury factor that permeates the palette of black, grays and nudes in both menswear and womenswear. Consider that purple, a color associated with wealth and royalty, is the most prominent pop color used by American designers this season in shades from lavender to eggplant.

Supple, rich leathers are in jackets and accessories such as gloves and boots. Denim appears in a stunning array of washes and fits. And hardware details such as studs, grommets, buckles and zippers add interest if not always utility to garments, bags and footwear.

Motorcycle jackets and boots, though sleek and polished, evoke a yearning for a more grounded existence. Leather gloves will be seen at the first sign of cool weather, and a shiny black pair is a must-have.

Some of fall’s hottest styles by Ports 1961 and Kenneth Cole. Click on an image for a closer, head-to-toe look.

Here are some gender-specific trends to watch for.

WOMEN

Emphasis is on the waist again, with belts thin and wide cinching the body tight for an hourglass figure. It’s balanced with strong shoulders that range from modernized 80s-style padding to cutouts that show some skin.

A nouveau rocker-meets grunge-look accentuated by leather, faux fur and studded denim is a key look, done well by labels such as Vena Cava.

In footwear, animal prints return with a vengeance, but funkier in neon colors and high-fashion silhouettes such as stiletto gladiators. Textures are nature-inspired, mimicking animal skins as varied and exotic as crocodiles and pythons

Bags and ballet flats embellished with everything from crystals, beads and studs to feathers, zippers and even bicycle chains.

Platform pumps are strong. Boots are even stronger, with over-the-calf and over-the-knee styles abundant. But the biggest boot story is the bootie. Looks like everybody from Guess to Gucci is offering one of these ankle-high styles.

Jewelry is still bold and heavy on metal, with clunky multistrand necklaces adding vintage flair and large cuffs replacing the trend of multiple stacked bracelets.

MEN

Colors are muted and dark, but not dreary thanks to design details and tailored fit that combine for sleeker looks than last fall and winter. Guys will want to make sure their wardrobes contain at least one slim suit - navy and  dark are most prevalent- with some strength in the shoulders, as seen in designs by Prada and Tommy Hilfiger.

A versatile piece is the wrinkle-resistant dress shirt. Men should own several in solid colors, stripes and subtle prints. Wear them with jeans and a blazer or over corduroys, layered with peacoats, jackets and knits such as cardigans, vests and turtlenecks.

It’s farewell to backpacks and messenger bags as bags take an interesting turn this fall and winter. They are larger and more sophisticated than ever, thanks to fashion-forward designs by luxury brands such as Bally, Hugo Boss, D&G and Giorgio Armani.

Etro has created the ideal guy bag, a leather-trimmed weekender in a houndstooth plaid of earth tones and tropical sunset colors.

All-white doesn’t necessarily mean all-white

A casually yet stylishly dressed gentleman approached me in a restaurant the other day, introduced himself as a cousin of a friend of mine, and asked if he must dress completely in white for an all-white party he was planning to attend.

My answer was, and is, no. But my rationale requires a bit of unpacking. Yes, it would be appropriate for him to wear monochromatic, head-to-toe white for the occasion. But he would not be wrong to sport black or colored stitching in a white shirt or pants, a hint of subtle color in the ensemble, or even sand or light tan footwear.

The same applies to women. Uninterrupted white is boring, clinical, even unnatural. It requires no imagination, creativity or thought. That’s not what getting dressed for a party is supposed to be all about.

It’s easy to honor an all-white dress code in principle without looking literal. While your primary pieces - pants, shirt, skirt, dress, suit- can be white, details such as stitching, buttons and trim can introduce a little color to give your look some depth and structure.

Summer is the best time to bring out the white. Just one piece can jazz up and freshen up a look. White is so strong that it pulls the eye, so it has maximum effect when worn one piece at a time. Check out the pieces shown here.

Click on the Kipling, Ecko and Tyrwhitt photos to shop

Retail icon, trend expert publish men’s style guide

It’s not hard to imagine what you get when you combine a leading fashion retailer and one of the world’s foremost fashion and consumer trend experts. If what you get is a book, then it’s bound to be one of the most valuable resources any man of style can own. And its title is probably Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Style.

Released May 15, the 155-page hardback (Chronicle, $19.95) is Pittsburgh native Tom Julian’s first, as well as Nordstrom’s first focused on the retailer’s storied heritage of dressing men impeccably since the 1960s. It begins with a quiz that helps guys identify their style ID: luxury, classic, contemporary or trendy. (Or a combination, like me and many other men.) Then it’s quickly on to details about wardrobe essentials that fit properly and look debonair for each lifestyle.

Julian’s tone is refreshing, with just enough humor. He is authoritative without talking down to readers, affirming every man’s potential to be stylish rather than seeking to make debonair the domain of an exclusive few. The manual is loaded with practical, step-by-step advice that takes guys from basics such as matching shirts and ties to more sophisticated matters of style such as choosing custom suit details. The informational flow is logical and a cinch to follow, from the basics about essential garments such as shirts, pants and jackets to fabric attributes and correct fit. There’s also interesting “Did you know?” fashion trivia throughout.

Shoes, neckwear and formalwear - sticky wickets for many fellows - get deserved attention. There are tips on how to clean garments, how to treat stains and how to pack smartly for a trip. More than just attractive design elements, the photos and diagrams by Nordstrom staff show and tell how to achieve a desired look with relative ease. Plus, each chapter has an “Ask the Nordstrom tailor” section with answers to relevant, commonly asked questions on each topic.

The project “was sheer joy because everybody came to the table with something,” said Julian. The book was completed in less than seven months, unusually fast. Julian credits collaborative chemistry between writer, publisher and client for keeping the project on track. Nordstrom is a client of Julian’s Manhattan-based company, Tom Julian Group, and Pete Nordstrom penned an engaging foreword.

From the sartorially savvy high school teen heading off to college to the mature gentleman well along in his life and career, every fellow should own Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Style. It’s available at Nordstrom stores, Nordstrom.com, Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble and other book stores.

Green sprouts as spring’s “it” color for women

All the recent eco-conscious talk about “going green” conjures images of fuel-conscious vehicles and recycled grocery bags. Allow us to go literal for a moment about Mother Nature’s signature color, one that symbolizes health, fertility, renewal, regeneration, vibrant new life.

Green is spring’s it color, from natural shades such as grass, jade, emerald and moss to the more appetizing hues of lime, mint, pistachio, olive and avocado. Of nearly 10 million colors distinguishable to the human eye, green has the widest range and, as such, is the most complex and versatile of colors. In nature, green can be inviting or revolting. In home décor, it can be relaxing or stimulating. And in fashion, it suggests a grounded stability yet a determination to soar.

Green is always in, and there’s a hue or shade to complement every skin tone. But this season’s trendiest variations range from loud lime to chic chartreuse. They are accent colors best worn one or two pieces at a time against a palette of white, tan or some other neutral.

Sun protection with style and smarts

When the weather is warm, most folk want to wear less and feel the sun on their skin more. But while you’re showing off your summer wardrobe or angling for a more even skin tone, it’s important to remember that the best way to fight visible signs of aging is to wear sunblock.

Here are 17 tips on protecting yourself from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays, from sunscreen application to wise selection of accessories.

• Wear lightweight, layered garments. Be mindful that more tightly woven fabrics and darker colors help block the sun’s rays.
• Add to your wardrobe clothes that have sun protection factor built in. They’re becoming more common for children and adults.
• Wear a hat with a wide brim to protect the head and face. The fabric or material should breathe without having cracks or spaces that allow direct light through. Lab Series makes an effective one for men that works as well for women.
• Wear sunglasses that block at least 99% of UVA and UVB rays, especially if you have cataracts, macular degeneration or other eye problems. Shades labeled “UV 400″ keep out 99% of UV rays while polycarbonate absorbs 100%. Some of the better cosmetics that contain SPF are at Prescriptives, Clinique, Lavera, Bliss and Bobbi Brown.
• Before buying shades, check for scratches, distortions or imperfections on the lenses. The wisest choices cover the entire eye areas. There are hip styles at Nautica, dELiA*s, Buckle, AmeriMark and Overstock.com.
• Although some clear lenses can have total UV protection, dark lenses generally are better because they automatically screen out 75-90% of visible light.
• Polarized shades reduce glare while anti-reflective coatings and mirror lenses give some protection. When a lens gets scratched, replace the glasses for optimal protection.
• Because UV damage begins in childhood, kids — who are more vulnerable than adults — should wear sunglasses. Everyone should wear them even on overcast days because UV rays penetrate clouds.
• Wear broad-spectrum sunblock (that blocks both UVA and UVB rays) on any day where you’ll be outdoors for at least 15 minutes. There are some good options at benefit, Origins, DERMAdoctor, Glowology, AmeriMark, Beautorium and Walmart.
• Use a minimum SPF 30. Apply the equivalent of a teaspoon for an area the size of an arm at least 30 minutes before going out, and reapply at least every two hours if outdoors for a prolonged period.
• Use waterproof or sweatproof sunblock if you plan to engage in any applicable activity. Banana Boat has many options.
• For the face, use a sunscreen formulated especially for that more sensitive skin. Some of our favorites are by Clarins, Darphin and Hampton Sun. Apply to the neck and the upper chest just below.



• Don’t miss key areas such as lips, ears, nail beds and between the toes when sporting footwear that leaves feet or toes exposed. Skin cancer rates are increasing in all four areas. Also popular are options by Origins, Lavera, Zirh, benefit and Bobbi Brown.
• Jo Malone’s Vitamin E Lip Conditioner SPF 15 for men and women (pictured on right) protects and heals ($20).
• Choose hair grooming and scalp treatment products with SPF. More women are choosing lipsticks, foundations and other cosmetics that contain SPF.
• Rather than the widely used sunscreens, kids under the age of 6 and adults with sensitive skin should use zinc dioxide, titanium dioxide and other such topical sun barriers.
• Note expiration dates on products containing SPF. Toss them upon expiration, or save money by using them simply as moisturizers.
• If you seek the sun just for a tan, try self-tanning products that contain SPF. You’ll kill two birds with one stone. Bobbi Brown and Bliss have quality sunless tan products.

18 spring fashion trends for women

1. Asymmetrical pieces — a daring diagonal at the neckline or hem
2. Big, bold necklaces — multiple strands are hot
3. Chunky bracelets — stacked high on one arm
4. Festoons — bows, sashes, floral appliqués on tops, skirts, dresses
5. Dramatic collars — large and in charge
6. Fringes — on dresses, skirts, evening shoes, bags
7. Jumpsuits — updated 70s chic for all body types
8. Caftans — modernized in gorgeous prints and breezy fabrics
9. Clutches — carry them days as well as special occasions
10. Exotic and abstract prints — artsy, museumesque, tropical
11. Billows — dramatic full blouse sleeves and harem-style pants
12. Red dresses — confident and alluring
13. Shades of Blue — all are in, from sky to indigo
14. Bold yellow — canary makes every day sunny
15. Black-and-white — the spectator look is clean and sophisticated
16. Mini and micro — hemlines go dangerously high

17. African inspiration — print, drape and embellishment reflect the Motherland
18. Bejeweled shoes — crystals and stones on everything from flats to stilettos

9 spring fashion trends for men

1. Polos — especially acid colors, alone or doubled up
2. Flip-flops — minimal, comfortable, cool
3. Dressed-up sneakers — think Ed Hardy or John Varvatos Converse
4. Electric colors — a jolt from pants, shorts, shirts
5. Deconstructed sport coats — lived-in but not beat-up
6. Vests — dressed down or up
7. Bermuda shorts — plaid is the print du jour
8. Body-conscious knits — a handsome look for toned upper bodies
9. Hats — from fedoras to porkpies, brims are a debonair finishing touch

5 Staples for Every Closet

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“Fashion fades; style is eternal.” — Yves St. Laurent

Dark denim jeans

They can go a lot of places, from errand-running or chillin’ at the crib to the office with a jacket for casual Fridays. Some of the hottest styles are at ACNE, Buckle, Ecko, National Jean Co. and Lucky Brand Jeans.

Crisp white shirt

With a button-front, standard point collar and long sleeves, its versatility makes it equally compatible with jeans, khakis, or a suit. Choose a wrinkle-resistant, cotton-blend fabric with a thicker weave. Great options at Willow Ridge, Savile Row, Jos. A. Bank, Lane Bryant and Charles Tyrwhitt.

Raincoat

A trench with a removable lining is a classic that can be worn virtually year ‘round. The silhouette complements every body shape, and the traditional khaki color is universally flattering. Check out styles by Esprit, Nautica, Lew Magram, Monterey Bay and Boden.

Black turtleneck

The best bet for comfort and durability is one woven from two-ply, grade-A cashmere.

Quality umbrella

Not one of those midget sizes that can be tucked out of sight or one of those huge golf umbrellas, but a standard-length black one with a curved handle. Wal-Mart has some great affordable options.

8 Essentials for Every Man’s Wardrobe

“Dress elegantly and you will possess timeless and ageless style.” — Giorgio Armani

Navy blazer
It works with khakis, gray slacks, jeans and white pants in the summer. Look for a wool blend in a single-breasted style.

Black suit
For the inevitable funerals — and beyond. The only item more serious is a tuxedo. Again, a single-breasted wool blend is the most timeless and seasonless.

Khaki suit
Perfect for those warm-weather months and equally debonair with white or colors.

Dark necktie
A navy or black style of quality silk in a standard width can last a lifetime. Narrow, extra-wide and knit varieties trend in and out.

Oxfords
Black and dark brown lace-up shoes, polished and in good repair, are the most valuable two pairs of shoes you can own.

Dark dress socks
Nothing’s better or more versatile than smooth, plain black ones. You should never wear socks lighter than your trousers.

White handkerchiefs
Clean and pressed, they can be tucked in a front jacket pocket for an elegant sartorial touch or simply stowed in a pocket for hygienic use.

Pajamas
You may prefer gym shorts and tank tops or sleeping in the buff, but for the invariable road trips, it’s best to carry along a set of silk or cotton-blend peejays with a long-sleeve, button-up shirt and ankle-length, snap-front bottoms.

11 Must-Haves for Every Woman’s Wardrobe

“A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.” — Coco Chanel

Dark suit
Whether black or navy, you’re best off if you can find a three-piece that includes slacks, a skirt and a jacket. Slightly tapered, waist-accentuating jackets look best and the best skirt length is to the knees.

Beige suit
Introduces variety that allows you to play colors or white against a lighter palette. It’s more casual than black but still serious when it needs to be.

Navy skirt
Whether pencil or A-line, it should be simple and flatter your figure without appearing oppressively tight.

Sweater twinset
Both corporate and casual, a twinset in any color works with a wealth of pieces such as jeans, capris, slacks and skirts.

Little black dress
One of your most prized possessions, it will never disappoint you. Regardless of your size, shape or style, it’s not hard to find one that makes you look like a million bucks.

Evening clutch
It’s appropriate whether you’re attired in a cocktail dress, formal gown or tuxedo-inspired ensemble. Black satin is your best stand-by, and a little shimmer or sparkle can add understated pizzazz.

Pearls
In post earrings, a bracelet, a single-strand choker or multiple ropes, white pearls are clean and classic, a hallmark of good taste and refinement.

Black pumps
A four-inch lift is fine, but there are times when your heels and toes need to be covered. That’s when you reach for the simple black leather pump.

Strappy heels
And then there are occasions when an outfit calls for the more sensual strappy heel. Make sure you have a neutral on the ordinary side before adding styles in wild prints, unusual textures, bold colors and festive embellishments.

Hosiery
Sometimes bare legs are inappropriate. That’s when you reach for nude, sheer or opaque hosiery.

Spanx
When certain body areas need to be downplayed, de-emphasized or squeezed in and dieting and exercise can’t help.

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