Jackson and Rucci debut dazzling spring collections

NEW YORK CITY - Two of America’s best designers debuted their spring 2010 womenswear collections simultaneously yesterday evening, bringing some sartorial sunshine into the gloomy weather that has tarried here in Gotham for the last few days.

Chado Ralph Rucci

HNJ by Henry Jackson

Henry N. Jackson and Ralph Rucci showed on different scales during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, with Mr. Jackson presenting 25 ensembles to an intimate gathering of about 125 people in his Midtown Manhattan showroom and Mr. Rucci introducing 54 looks to a crowd of more than 1,000 a few blocks away in the tents at Bryant Park.

But what they had in common was an enthusiastic reception of clothing beautifully and carefully made.  Both men are incredibly gifted and skilled designers, their names known primarily to the relative few with knowledge beyond the mass-produced, trend-driven, hyper-advertised fashion that gluts the market.

Their deviation from the norm, though, doesn’t mean these designers don’t have something fresh to offer. They just have bites bigger than their bark, in the process giving Americans the closest thing to couture that we have.

Chado Ralph Rucci

In a tribute to First Lady Michelle Obama, who recently acquired several of Mr. Jackson’s  designs, he sent out gorgeous gowns and dresses in earthy shades and prints and brighter colors such as pink, orange and red.  There was beauty in the variety, from an exquisite black print butterfly cape dress to an indigo-print cowry shell strapless gown to a pink-and-raisin “zigzag zebra” raglan coat over a soft pink “flower plexus” sundress.

Many looks were Africa-inspired, and behind the impeccable tailoring, detailed embellishment, and sophisticated drape of each garment it was clear that these clothes were fashioned to look good on a wide range of sizes and shapes.   How refreshing - and intelligent!

Meanwhile, Mr. Rucci was serving up the same sort of maverick elegance that has made his Chado Ralph Rucci brand a sensation in high society here and in Europe.  He, too, is appreciably thoughtful in his approach, evolving his design process over time by taking a key technique or silhouette from the previous season and refining it in the next.

Chado Ralph Rucci

In this collection, embroidery motifs inspired by the human anatomy grew more complex  — but not complicated — as they rose upward from the hems of dresses and other garments. His silk tulle, silk chiffon and silk gazar day coats, dresses and gowns became all the more interesting as he eschewed surface decorations such as crystals and beads for the careful tucking, sculpting and stitching of fabric in ways that produced unusually lovely depth, shadow and texture. While looks such as a taupe feather dress and a black-and-gold kabuki gown would give new meaning to a dramatic entrance, less dressy but no less gorgeous pants, skirts and suits in black mohair, white silk, and gray wool crepe provided even more options for his customer.

Fashion can not move forward without the steady infusion of new voices and new approaches, and The Academy of Art University runway presentation each season treats guests to capsule collections of the San Francisco school’s top students.

Seven emerging designers in AAU’s fashion, textile, and knitwear design master’s degree programs showed creative and colorful spring womenswear looks yesterday, their aesthetics shaped by personal experiences around the world and, for some, internships with brands and designers such as Elie Tahari, Zac Posen and Anna Sui.

Each student produced some impressive looks: Bulgarian Marina Popska’s jacquard designs, German-born Kara Sennett’s swimsuits and tunics, Californian Amanda Cleary’s black and aqua overlay dresses, Filipino Richelle Valenzuela’s pieces in blue organza, Jie Pan of China’s horsehair frocks in black and silver, Sawanya Jomthepmala of Thailand’s tops and bottoms in neon and pastel colors, and chic plaid taffeta dresses and ruffled jackets by Brittney Major of the Carolinas.

Who knows how many of these young talents could one day become household names?

More looks for spring ‘10

Monarchy Collection

Rag & Bone

Lacoste