Maria Pinto’s game-changing spring collection

NEW YORK CITY — Maria Pinto was obliging a photo request, stepping to the center of the room in an elegant black ensemble and standing on rose petals strewn across the floor of this rented space in Manhattan’s meatpacking district.

As a dozen perfectly styled models wearing ensembles from Ms. Pinto’s spring 2010 collection came alongside and behind her in perfect pose, the petite fashion designer smiled and cameras flashed. Something artistically and emotionally arresting happened in that moment beyond a mere photo op, and spontaneous applause began. It grew, accompanied by cheers, until it reverberated through every inch of the space.

Most of those present that Wednesday evening probably had not heard of Ms. Pinto three years ago, before the public became intrigued by Michelle Obama’s fashion choices and learned that Ms. Pinto was one of her favorite designers to wear. And while the First Lady’s endorsement has given Ms. Pinto more name recognition and priceless publicity, the designer has been making beautiful clothes and winning prestigious design awards for years.

So when word went out that Ms. Pinto planned to debut her spring-summer collection here during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, style watchers, trend forecasters, and the industry’s fashion-curious dared not miss it. And anyone who attended the informal presentation during the three-hour window got a chance to see first-hand what all the fuss is — justifiably — about.

There’s no major and minor in Ms. Pinto’s design ethic. While some designers privilege style over substance and others esteem function over form, she understands the need and desire that modern women have for both in equal measure. Combining that with comfort, versatility, durability, and a soupcon of edginess, she created a collection that should have wide appeal and perform well even at recession-ravaged retail.

Argentina inspired her, from polo to the tango, as she sought to fuse seemingly opposing elements — the classic and the forward, the simple and the intricate, the delicate and the durable. A difficult balancing act, yet ultimately a succesful one if success can be measured by the expressions of approval on the faces and lips of so many guests at the preview.

Ms. :Pinto knows the art of editing, She showed about half of the actual collection, carefully selecting, styling, and arranging each showcased look for powerful visual impact. Her less-is-more approach allowed guests to appreciate the craftsmanship and beauty of each piece, from a romantic cami-style top with a rose pin in peony charmeuse worn with a breathtaking crystal embroidered peony organza skirt to a dazzling mimosa jacquard long coat over matching shorts with a steel charmeuse cami to an elegant black orchid dress sculpted from an unusually light and forgiving form of jersey.

Whether the economy is robust or stagnant, it makes sense to buy clothes that can be interchanged with existing pieces and that have a shelf life longer than chocolate milk. Ms. Pinto positions herself well ahead of the pack with these kinds of clothes that happen to be irresistibly elegant at the same time.

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