Spring ‘10 womenswear colorful, creative

NEW YORK CITY - Some trends in womenswear for next spring and summer have begun to emerge in the opening days of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week here.

Those looking high and low for any indicator of economic recovery might see a glimmer of hope in the profusion of vibrant colors and lively prints sent down the runway by the likes of BCBG, Mara Hoffman, Whitney Eve, Lyn Devon and Farah Angsana. The lively, optimistic shades and hues are a U-turn from the predominantly neutral palette of the last two seasons, a drabness that tends to come about in times of economic severity.

Whitney Eve

Mara Hoffman

Another possible sign of better days ahead are innovative and experimental manipulations of fabric. Designers are taking textiles in joyful colors and bold prints and cutting, stitching and draping them into garments that evoke memories of happier times in prior decades. Fashion inevitably references the past, and the best designers add their own twists, tweaks and touches.

Fits are across the spectrum, from looser, less structured, more voluminous dresses, skirts and tops to breezy goddess gowns and bubbly, hip-widening skirts draped, tucked and folded to emphasize the hips and define the waist. There are high-waisted bottoms, tailored second-skin dresses and details such as modified portrait collars that give looks an edge but are always soft and feminine.

The shift dress just may be spring’s must-have, showing off the shoulders and legs and sporting an interesting neckline and subtle embellishments.

Along with the color rush is a continuation, perhaps even a greater abundance, of metallic glimmer, shimmer and shine. Take Whitney Eve’s collection, which features young and pretty daywear and cocktail looks such as a Lurexy silver-and-cream vest and matching tiered skirt, a breathtaking sparkly blue halter dress, and rainbow shorts with a matching vest with lapels.

Inspiration from cultures past and present is not new to fashion, but lately seems to be increased interest in Africa. Monique Lhuillier, whose reputation for elegant bridalwear and special occasion looks precedes her, based her new line on the intricate draping of attire worn by Masai warriors.

The concept could have gotten lost in translation, but for Ms. Lhuillier’s gift for execution and restraint. The silk jersey, fringe, twill and tweed dresses, gowns and other pieces she crafted are sure to perform well at retail because they are flat-out beautiful.

A sampling of the collection: A flapper-esque sunflower yellow halter dress with a macramé necklace; a rust silk jersey asymmetrical draped gown with a corded waist tie; a black embroidered bolero over an antique gold “armor” embroidered strapless cocktail dress; a tiger sequin chiffon cocktail dress with a cowl and sexy low back; and an A-line trench coat and strapless A-line cocktail dress, both in a chic leopard-print twill.

Michael Angel

Ports 1961 usually serves up a visual feast on the runway that loses some of its edge by the time it hits stores in the U.S. (Their foreign customers aren’t as timid.) But it would be a shame to compromise anything between the catwalk and the sidewalk in this magnificent collection.

Ports 1961

Designer Tia Cibani is one of today’s most thoughtful and creative talents. For spring, she drew heavily on nature for lean yet shapely silhouettes that reference 1930s couture; soft natural and manmade silks, organzas and tropical wools; water prints and textures such as jacquard lame and chainmail weave; and architectural accessories such as belts, purses and brooches imaginatively crafted from bamboo shoots, vachetta leather and stingray.

The brand collaborated with award-winning shoe designer Julia Lundsten of FINSK for pumps, sandals and ballet flats, as well as with Japanese fabric artist Ritsuko Hirai. Together they completed an unusually large collection of 50 looks, from a cherry tropical wool dress with a buff clutch and suede peeptoe pumps in a pale shade called “dew” to a belted, butterfly-like kimono dress worn with sandals and a gorgeous trench coat with a matching lace dress in a hue called “cloud” with a bamboo and vinyl belt and suede sandals.

Elsewhere, Max Azria’s BCBG collection showed more of his signature short, boxy drape dresses popular among the 20-something set, and some sexier styles that veered close to the body-glove looks of his recent Herve Legér collections.

BCBG Max Azria

And Michael Angel was notable for lovely print mixing that looked like abstract paintings ripped from their frames and stitched into fresh and alluring dresses, skirts and tops. It was a fresh take on cocktail, with looks such as a pleated top and tulip skirt complemented by Manolo Blahnik’s custom peeptoe stiletto booties in colorful prints and Alexis Bittar’s bold, colorful earrings and cuffs.

If the sort of looks shown these first days of fashion week continue through next Thursday, fashion retail just might push itself into recovery come spring.