American womenswear designers are redefining power dressing for fall-winter 2010

Four of the strongest trends emerging for the season are an incredibly strong military influence; unapologetic opulence and luxury; the ubiquity of grey and its connotations of independence and authority; and black as the new black.

Monique Lhuillier (photo by Ben Nelson, Envision Studio)

Designers are incorporating epaulets, strong shoulders, double-breasted silhouettes, and other military themes into sportswear and even eveningwear. Crystals, jewels, and fur are a bigger part of collections than they have been for several years. Shades of grey are everywhere, from Chanel-like tweed suits to sweaters and dresses. And black is by far the most ubiquitous color coming down runways.

Stir in some other trends — lacey black overlays, fashion boots of all heights, fiercely angled wide-brim hats — and the result is a fabulous femme fatale ready to take on the world.

The key directional look for women is that of a powerful, confident, ladylike sophisticate who not only knows the power of fashion but embraces it as a tool for forging ahead in uncertain, ever-changing times.

The feel of it is, at times, strangely and attractively dark. Such is the case in the collection presented by Monique Lhuillier, which was inspired by Chinese warrior and military suits. With the long sleeves, pronounced shoulders, and high necks in black and navy fabrics, the looks could have become too severe and edgy. But Lhuilier, whose background is in bridal, still struck a feminine and ladylike chord with lacquered velvets, lace and printed jacquards.

Chado Ralph Rucci

For those who still hunger for color, shades of red — key on many runways — and metallics provided welcomed interludes. There was a crimson jacquard strapless dress with a gold leather chain bolero and a glamorous Shanghai red duchess draped gown with a floral skirt.

Carolina Herrera debuted one of her strongest fall-winter lines in years, combining the masculine allure of Prince of Wales and windowpane patterns with the softness of printed silks, intricate embroidery, ruffles, and voluminous sleeves and skirts. There was some black in the palette, but it took a back seat to rich camel, chocolate, deep reds and Prussian blue.

Herrera is about all elegance all the time, whether her client is heading to the office, lunching with a friend, or heading off to a charity gala. So it was no surprise to see looks as diversely gorgeous as black silk crepe wide-leg pants with a black silk belt and a white silk taffeta organza full-sleeve blouse; a camel wool-cashmere cape over a white top with camel-and-ivory mohair windowpane plaid pants and an embroidered, fox-trimmed mohair scarf; and a steel blue and black etched floral jacquard gown cinched with a red eel belt.

Carmen Marc Valvo again did not disappoint, returning to NASDAQ in the heart of Times Square to present a well edited line of dazzling cocktail dresses, gowns, jackets, and other pieces for special occasions. Each ensemble was as sumptuous as the next, from a gold caviar beaded brocade cheongsam under an onyx wool sateen trench to a stunning fan-pleated cocktail dress in malachite metallic brocade.

Carolina Herrera

Valvo went to the well once again to draw deeply from timeless elegance and sophistication, and sharing a sartorial sip with him was completely satisfying.