Angsana reigns on NY fashion week’s first day

Farah Angsana showed up and showed off at Bryant Park yesterday.

Her line of cocktail, evening, and special-occasion looks for fall-winter 2010 gave a jolt to the opening day of Mercerdes-Benz Fashion Week in Midtown Manhattan, electrifying an audience during an otherwise ho-hum day. As they left the show, some guests praised the line as the best they had seen all day.

BCBG Max Azria

For many, Angsana came out of nowhere.  She showed her first special-occasion collection last September at  a nearby hotel during fashion week. Before that, she had become an acccomplished designer of bridalwear, a subcategory of fashion with a much smaller base and less media exposure.

But the fall-winter line she debuted inside the big white tents yesterday was, look for look,  one to rival anything done by the likes of Badgley Mischka, Carolina Herrera, and Oscar de la Renta. Like Monique Lhuillier and Vera Wang before her, Angsana made a logical creative progression from wedding gowns to after-five ensembles. Her leap, however, was more appreciable in terms of creativity and sheer beauty.

Spontaneous applause marked several “aaah” moments during the runway show. Angsana incorporated touches of lace, sequins, feathers, and fur into jackets, dresses, and gowns cut from luxurious silks, cashmere, and chiffon. Her palette encompassed black, metallics, scarlet, and rich shades of blue and purple.

Mackage

Angsana gave Hollywood’s A-list women ample reasons to look her up when it’s time to stroll the red carpet. At the same time, there was plenty to appeal to ordinary women who want to look extraordinary for a special affair: a black silk chiffon halter dress with a hand-pleated bodice worn under a black silk wool evening coat detailed with ostrich feathers and black sequins; a Lurex-woven gunmetal evening coat with silver fox cuffs and collar; a fuchsia silk duchess one-shoulder evening gown with a black floral-sequined tulle overlay; and her final showstopper, a dramatic scarlet silk gazar gown with a crystal and sequin bodice and a layered bias-front petal skirt.

Angsana is a designer with a sharp eye and a deft hand who knows how to manipulate and embellish fabric so that her creations are wearably elegant and don’t cross the line into costume or cliche. She’s a breath of fresh air, one to watch for years to come.

Other shows from Thursday:

Ports 1961

One of Tia Cibani’s strengths as a designer is that her concepts are consistently intelligent and inspired. One of the dangers ever present is that the process could become so cerebral and technical that something essential is lost in translation. We are, after all, talking about clothes that must be worn and that ultimately must make sense. That said, the organic and innovative vibe of past-meets-future that gives Ports fashion so much of its unique appeal was a bit overwrought and at times confusing in the latest collection. There were some moments nwhere it soared, however, from gorgeous print dresses in silk and velvet to a jumpsuit, cape coat, and dolman-sleeve dress in a lovely flecked gray dubbed “pepper.”

BCBG Max Azria

The BCBG girl is one who never grows up. She’s happy to live every moment of her life in loose, deconstructed garments with just enough tuck and drape to look like they weren’t home-ec projects. The problem is, each look comes off as indulgently self-derivative as the one before, differnt only in color and pattern.  This time around, belts were used to cinch tops and dresses, and  bias and handkerchief hems managed to extend the life of a well worn cliche. The most interpreting looks were the handful that were more tailored and fit. They almost seemed to nudge the BCBG girl reluctantly toward maturity rather nthan allowing her to remain a fashion victim trapped in an optionless past.

Farah Angsana

Mackage

Well known for great-looking coats and outerwear, the brand has made a foray into complete looks for men and women. It was a smart move. Who among Mackage’s devotees wouldn’t want the chance to wear an entire Mackage ensemble? While fellows are sure to find several coats and jackets to make their own come autumn, ladies who appreciate sexy and smart day-to-evening ensembles are sure to fall in love with dresses and jackets in menswear-inspired checks.