Fall’09 fashion a more somber elegance

With the advent of fall, the global recession has taken its most visible toll yet on fashion. From pronounced shoulders to a somber color palette, the styles coming forth this fall and winter hearken back to the era of the last recession - the Eighties.

But there’s something persistently optimistic this time around. It’s reflected in the luxury factor that permeates the palette of black, grays and nudes in both menswear and womenswear. Consider that purple, a color associated with wealth and royalty, is the most prominent pop color used by American designers this season in shades from lavender to eggplant.

Supple, rich leathers are in jackets and accessories such as gloves and boots. Denim appears in a stunning array of washes and fits. And hardware details such as studs, grommets, buckles and zippers add interest if not always utility to garments, bags and footwear.

Motorcycle jackets and boots, though sleek and polished, evoke a yearning for a more grounded existence. Leather gloves will be seen at the first sign of cool weather, and a shiny black pair is a must-have.

Some of fall’s hottest styles by Ports 1961 and Kenneth Cole. Click on an image for a closer, head-to-toe look.

Here are some gender-specific trends to watch for.

WOMEN

Emphasis is on the waist again, with belts thin and wide cinching the body tight for an hourglass figure. It’s balanced with strong shoulders that range from modernized 80s-style padding to cutouts that show some skin.

A nouveau rocker-meets grunge-look accentuated by leather, faux fur and studded denim is a key look, done well by labels such as Vena Cava.

In footwear, animal prints return with a vengeance, but funkier in neon colors and high-fashion silhouettes such as stiletto gladiators. Textures are nature-inspired, mimicking animal skins as varied and exotic as crocodiles and pythons

Bags and ballet flats embellished with everything from crystals, beads and studs to feathers, zippers and even bicycle chains.

Platform pumps are strong. Boots are even stronger, with over-the-calf and over-the-knee styles abundant. But the biggest boot story is the bootie. Looks like everybody from Guess to Gucci is offering one of these ankle-high styles.

Jewelry is still bold and heavy on metal, with clunky multistrand necklaces adding vintage flair and large cuffs replacing the trend of multiple stacked bracelets.

MEN

Colors are muted and dark, but not dreary thanks to design details and tailored fit that combine for sleeker looks than last fall and winter. Guys will want to make sure their wardrobes contain at least one slim suit - navy and  dark are most prevalent- with some strength in the shoulders, as seen in designs by Prada and Tommy Hilfiger.

A versatile piece is the wrinkle-resistant dress shirt. Men should own several in solid colors, stripes and subtle prints. Wear them with jeans and a blazer or over corduroys, layered with peacoats, jackets and knits such as cardigans, vests and turtlenecks.

It’s farewell to backpacks and messenger bags as bags take an interesting turn this fall and winter. They are larger and more sophisticated than ever, thanks to fashion-forward designs by luxury brands such as Bally, Hugo Boss, D&G and Giorgio Armani.

Etro has created the ideal guy bag, a leather-trimmed weekender in a houndstooth plaid of earth tones and tropical sunset colors.