Show-stopping glamour by Georges Chakra and Zang Toi

There always have been and always will be cheapskates, those for whom a perceived bargain price trumps everything — even poor quality.

ADAM

There is another demographic that influences the economy, especially during recession. While not as visible, this segment of the population keeps the bottom from falling out, preventing a recession from becoming a depression. This cautious consumer — not always a person of wealth — is compelled to buy not necessarily because of cost, but because that object of desire is of undeniable quality and durability. This buyer makes not merely a purchase, but an investment.

Some American designers make a living appealing to this market. Zang Toi and Georges Chakra are two of them, and the fall 2010 womenswear collections they showed yesterday in New York City on the third day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week gave investment dressers something to talk about now and to anticipate at retail later.

Chakra lent elegant shimmer, glimmer and gleam to his 42-ensemble Edition line, presenting a succession of timeless dresses, suits and coats for special occasion and cocktail. The collection was heavily black, a wise choice and the best backdrop for jeweled embellishment, with a number of pieces popping in red, silver, copper, off-white and a regal blue.

He is the new master of the dramatic exit, finishing the backs of dresses and jackets with dramatic and tasteful buttons, lapels, and backlines. He added peak lapels to the back of a Wedgwood blue, short-sleeve cocktail dress, for example, and a silvery lace collar to the back of a copper gabardine lame off-shoulder, long-sleeve suit.

Black lace is emerging as a big fall trend, and Chakra put it to good use. Black Chantilly lace covered a black gabardine strapless cocktail dress as a peekaboo, A-line overlay, took on an elegant edginess as a cocktail pantsuit, and complemented a lovely fitted black tuxedo jacket as a long skirt.

Lacoste

In some of the hottest special-occasion looks seen so far, Chakra sent out a succession of four black beaded chiffon gowns. Each was topped with a distressed and glazed outerwear piece, from a copper satin trench to cropped jackets in navy and red to a red opera trench.

The looks were the sartorial equivalent of sweet and salty — tasty apart, delicious together.

By now, Zang Toi must be accustomed to the bursts of applause that erupt during his shows. Yesterday was no different, with many guests struggling to their feet in the crowded confines of a Manhattan nightclub to give the designer a standing ovation.

Once again, he earned it. The signature color for his fall line is black, with purple as the only secondary color.

He continues to target the confident sophisticate, the woman with great taste who is just enough diva to stand out in a room and just enough lady to look like she isn’t trying.

Toi introduced the collection as “timeless beautied reflecting the mood of the current economy.” He believes that women “who are making serious purchases are seduced by beautifully crafted collections that are stylish and timeless — an investment that never goes out of fashion.”

Georges Chakra

Each of his 29 looks spoke eloquently to that, whether they would be worn to a social lunch or to a formal gala. There was a black cashmere-silk-wool ribbed turtleneck with a black suede high-waisted pencil skirt with a black leather-lace overlay, accessorized with a vintage black fox stole. Then there was a flawlessly chic purple wool tweed suit featuring a mink-trimmed blazer over a sheath dress with a sensual organza illusion front.

There also were fabulous pieces in black and purple mohair-silk hombre, from a sheath dress with side slits to an A-line coat with a matching A-line dress.

Just when you think Toi can wow you no further, he does. The show’s last looks were one-two-three knockout punches: a dazzling black silk-velvet strapless gown with a sparkling crystal and pearl estate necklace with a high neck and bib effect; a stunning black jet bead draped choker above a purple silk organza strapless gown with black sequins and beads in hombre effect; and his head-turning, grand-finale piece de resistance — a black knit strapless minidress sprinkled with purple beaded blossoms worn under a black silk gazar opera coat with pouf sleeves encrusted with purple beaded blossoms.

Any who doubt that such luxurious clothes turned out by the likes of Toi and Chakra will find a home come fall might take a look at history.
Jean Patou’s Joy, the most expensive perfume made up to that point, debuted and sold well during the Great Depression.

Zang Toi