Former fashion editor’s new book shares decades of style, celebs, and a life well lived

There aren’t many women like Barbara Cloud. The retired journalist spent most of her 55-year career covering the fashion industry, yet remained genuinely warm and gracious in a world where being plastic and rude increasingly became the order of the day.

Barbara Cloud

To read by-line, the new book by Ms, Cloud, is to hear from someone who has something to say that is worth hearing. The 251-page paperback, published by Word Association Publishers, is a collection of 80 columns from her illustrious 55-year career at daily newspapers in Southwestern Pennsylvania. The tome is creatively divided into five chapters based on the fundamental questions newspaper reporters are trained to ask and answer: who, what, where, when, and why.

Although Ms. Cloud’s life ambition was to be a professional actress, her first job out of Westminster College was as a newspaper reporter in 1952. That job turned into a lifelong career - she never took a journalism course - during which she met and wrote about many interesting people both in and outside fashion. Her relationships and connections read like a Who’s Who of the rich and famous: Phyllis Diller, Nancy Reagan, Telly Savalas, Rosalind Russell, Diahann Carroll, Charlton Heston, Judy Garland, Vidal Sassoon, Julie Newmar, Gloria Swanson, Joan Crawford, Ralph Lauren, Galanos, Adolfo, Verte, to name just a few.

But to her credit, there’s no name-dropping or ego-tripping. Just honest, insightful, engaging analysis of people, places, and events she encountered along her professional journey. Ms. Cloud’s gift for wonderfully weaving a story was one reason she won numerous journalism awards, from local and regional honors to such national accolades as the 1971 Men’s Fashion Association Aldo fashion writer’s award and, 20 years later, that organization’s Lifetime Achievement Golden Aldo.

Receiving an award in 1991

With Cary Grant

With Rosalind Russell

The book includes copies of photos and letters from over the years. They’re interesting to look at, a visual walk down memory lane. But even if they were not included, the stories this writer shares are well worth the modest investment of time and money.

A short Q&A with Barbara Cloud

How do you define style?

I’m not sure I can define style, but I think I know it when I see it. It’s not about having money, that I know. Or piling on every trend, every season. I think of style as flair, which means a certain perception of a look. Some people have a “flair” for style. It doesn’t mean everyone has the same style, but they have a good eye, especially for their own look. Style is defined as “fashion” but I’m not sure there really is a single word to define it.

What decade was your favorite for fashion?

I don’t have a favorite decade for fashion, although I admit when I covered the industry from 1960 to 1990 approximately, I felt it was most alive and exhilarating when names like Bill Blass, Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Norman Norell, Anne Klein, Pauline Trigere were simply making women look beautiful. Of course, now they are all gone. But they set the mood for me, and spoiled me in many ways for what passes today as fashion. I feel very fortunate to have been around during those decades.

What would you consider the worst fashion trend of the last 30 years and why?

I suppose as a general rule it would be “no rules.” It would be “anything goes.” Most of us need guidelines, not set in stone but a direction. As a result, decorum is passé, as is respect in what we choose to wear. I think exposing body parts is out of control. I’m not sure when exposure became a trend, but it leaves nothing to the imagination. I feel that is a great loss to the beauty and intricate art of designing. And almost an insult to women themselves. If I could pick a single trend which astounds me, it would be the piercing of tongues, ears, noses etc., and the tattoo overkill - all in the name of fashion. Also, prices for a “name.” I find it insulting a designer of a handbag or a pair of shoes can ask $500, let alone thousands, for such an accessory, a staple in our wardrobes. That women will pay it is even more amazing. But remember, I am from another generation. My spending habits are quite different, and my needs come before my desires for fluff as I have never had money I didn’t know what to do with. So I marvel at such expenses.

Who is your all-time favorite womenswear designer or label?

I have had many in all the years I have been around, and for dreaming I would say I would have loved wearing or owning a Norell or a Valentino or Armani, even Donna Karan or Blass. I once owned a Donald Brooks dress, a Bonnie Cashin coat, a Pucci blouse and a drop-dead red wool Estevez dress years ago, and a B.H. Wragge dress. But my everyday working wardrobe consisted of many Liz Claiborne separates. I didn’t look for that label when I shopped, but when I saw something I liked it was more than likely Liz, when she was at the helm. I had a few Calvin Kleins and at one time Kimberly Knitwear was the most prominent label in my closet, in the 70s, especially when pantsuits arrived. I always loved Adrienne Vittadini sweaters. If I had to pick the label I had the most of, however, as a working woman, it would be the original Liz Claiborne, bought off the rack, followed by Jones New York sportswear and similar lines such as Ellen Tracy (before it got pricey). I buy many extras at Kmart and Sears, with no apologies.

Favorite menswear designer/label?

No favorite menswear designer, although I admire ads for designers like Hugo Boss, Cardin, etc. Names like Sal Cesarani, Alexander Julian brought color and flair to menswear when I was covering that market 25 years ago and they made it exciting. It was no longer just white shirts in the office. Menswear needed some excitement, and the time arrived when men were given permission to care about color. Yes, even wearing jewelry, although that can be tricky. Ralph Lauren has been major, of course, in creating the look of a certain lifestyle, and many others have followed that lead. I don’t know who designed the late Cary Grant’s wardrobe, but I’d vote for him any day as my favorite! Wow.

What are 3 staples every woman should have in her winter wardrobe?

A great bulky sweater, probably turtleneck; a coat with a hood; a warm and cuddly bathrobe. Boots, gloves, wrap scarf, naturally are givens.

What’s one winter must-have for men?

Judging from just seeing men in New York City during chill, a great muffler worn casually says a lot.

Name 3 style icons and why.

Never thought about it much. Nobody I copied, but several I admire. I was a movie fan as a teenager, and the more I watch old movies the more I realize I liked the look of Katharine Hepburn, Grace Kelly and, of course, for most of the world, Jacqueline Kennedy. Of course, they all had the money to look great, but they also knew how to carry it off - usually quite simply, but with that style factor which is hard to describe. And they gave us something to aim for, and something for designers to copy for an average woman’s wardrobe and budget. Jackie’s basic simplicity, Hepburn’s softening of menswear looks, Kelly and her pearls, white gloves, cleanliness and femininity. I admired Lauren Bacall, too, especially in Norman Norell. And especially her hair!

What advice would you offer someone who wants to become a fashion designer?

I would hope he or she would try to bring back true beauty and clothes which are sensible without being boring. Even though lifestyles have changed, even casual can be attractive, not just bizarre or baring the body. I know newness is the seasonal by-word - it can’t remain the same as the season before. And my idea of beauty is not the same as a 20-year-old. Still, I wish they would leave something to the imagination. I just saw “September Issue” and am reminded the fashion world depends on change, and exaggeration, whether we like it or not. It’s complicated.

Sunrise or sunset?

Sunrise means a new day, a new beginning. Sunset means the day is done. Prefer the sunrise - seldom awake to see it - but am grateful for the sunset, which I have photographed many times.

Coffee or tea?

What, no milk? I drink coffee, out of habit, in the morning, using my single cup French press, reading the morning paper. Just one cup, usually. I started to drink coffee after I was in a play, “I Remember Mama”, in college. Our director made sure we had fresh coffee in the prop pot on the stove every performance. Stage “business” included several scenes of having coffee, and I learned to like it black. Up until then I had always turned up my nose when I would take morning coffee to my mother, wondering why she liked it and swearing I never would.

Diamonds or pearls?

I have never been drawn to diamonds because it wasn’t realistic to desire them. But I can ooh and aah when I see a beauty, like the engagement ring my son gave to his wife. The sparkle of a diamond can cause me to stare or admire, but never to crave or envy. Pearls, on the other hand, aren’t intimidating and I feel comfortable wearing them. Maybe that’s because as a young girl, a first strand of pearls was a special gift. I have no idea if mine were real or imitation, but I would guess the latter. It didn’t matter. I wore my single strand of pearls almost every day, with a sweater to school or a gown to the prom. I felt elegant. Diamonds are more or less wasted on me - not that I would ever turn one down if presented to me!

One essential quality of a good writer?

Honesty. A good eye and a good ear.

What was the most challenging part of writing the book?

Deciding what to include with only a certain number of pages. To appeal to those who wanted fashion, those who wanted personal, those who wanted celebs. I saved many clippings, thank goodness, but choosing what would actually be interesting to a reader who would plunk down $16.95, that was hard. Wondering if anybody really cared was also a question I wrestled with. I didn’t want it to be an ego trip. I wanted people to like my choices. I wanted to take them on my journey.

What did you learn about yourself in the process?

I learned this about myself, looking back: I do tend to ramble as I share stories. But I couldn’t do it any other way. I write the way I talk. A good editor always helped me, but I wanted my voice to be heard. I also learned my past is a major part of who I am today. My memories are my strength as well as my weakness in some ways, but most of all, I appreciate even more what my years prior to now taught me and the love I shared. Even as I recognize looking forward is healthy, even at 80, I don’t mind being called a “queen of nostalgia” and remembering things past. I think I also learned I have been so privileged to have had the career I had. I didn’t always appreciate it until I put the book together.

By-line by Barbara Cloud is $16.95 at Barnes & Noble, Amazon.com, Marjie Allon, Pittsburgh Center for the Arts, Penguin Book Store in Sewickley, Pa., Mystery Lovers Book Store in Oakmont and at the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette’s online store.